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For my application, using the Cardone weldment between the bottom of the strut and the lower mount for the notch for the pinch bolt clearance, it is approximately 3” of additional threaded rod to match the length of the OEM strut.

My current plan, when I can actually get started on this car, is to match the body of the new to the old strut assuming I will eliminate the Cardone bottom mounts. Then mark where the notch needs to be for the clamp bolt, and match the overall length trimming the threaded rod as necessary. Just a plan in my head. It may all go to pieces once I get to it. My thought on installation and removal was to grind a rectangle at the top of the threaded rod to put a wrench on when tightening.

There could be a low tech solution using two nuts back to back and adjust it to the correct position on the threaded rod, lock them against each other and that would form the bottom support perch for the lower bushing. The added bonus is that there is now a hex nut to assist in the removal of the top nut in the future… Eliminating the cussing and swearing when trying to take apart the upper mount after years of operation…

Taking advantage of the unseasonably warm weather to finish the brakes. Have successfully purged the air from the master after replacing the valve unit so it should be easy from now on. Give her a bath, wax, putting on the new cover and tucking her away for another winter. Dreaming of next spring......

Conveyor belt ? Lawn tractor and cart ? Both ?

That is a real problem that I've been thinking about. I think on top of a tarp on the driveway is the best option. The drawback to to that is I don't want the rock truck, that can haul six cubic yards backing over my concrete driveway. It would have to back over the curb and through the yard. I don't know what kind of ruts that would leave that I would have to fill in. I would really like to haul the rocks myself so I could back up close to where they are needed. I don't how much my little light duty 1/2 ton GMC could haul. I imagine a 1/2 cubic yard at the most. I'm gong back to talk to the guy that sells the rocks about that. I put rocks around my father's house years ago when I was young., That time I had them dumped in the yard on a tarp. That didn't work out well at all. The tarp will kill the grass pretty quick so you have to work fast. I don't work fast at anything anymore. 🙂 Also, the tarp on the grass will tear while shoveling up the rocks. Once the rocks get in the grass they are almost impossible to get out. The only tool that seems to find them and get them out is a lawn mower. 🙂

Spreading rocks is a chore so perhaps doing the project over 2 years or so can smooth out the labor load and material cost. Future benefits are reduced yard maintenance, water consumption, and potential fire hazard. In any case, have some fun with it.............

One thing I see as a potential issue with strut cartridges is the support for the bushings. The Reatta struts mount at the top like shocks. They need a support for the lower bushing.

Good eye on the compression fitting, Ronnie. I saw that myself. I am not sure when that was done. I have had the car for ~ 9 months or so and have not gone through it stem to stern; and top to bottom.

I looked at a number of other sites for those 1993 Allante rear struts [of different brands] and they are way more expensive. I have 2 sets of Reatta stock rear struts in inventory and I still ordered the clamps and Allante struts. I may never need them but I know that when this part also dries up I'll still be able to sell this set up one day. As a matter of fact I'll probably sell the stock ones as that would be an easier sell and I know I can do the install of the Allante strut on my own.

M16 - 2 I purchased a coupler and rod from from Mc Master Carr. I might have purchased higher strength rod than actually needed kind of expensive. May plan is to have the suspension fully extended and determine rod length by having the strut extend so I have to compress it about 1.5". The idea being that the suspension will extend fully but not the strut.

Ok. I got to spend some quality time with the Reatta this afternoon. Cardone 1993 Allante Struts They will fit with following modifications: 1. Remove the lower rubber bushing and steel support for the original mounting hardware. 2. Grind a bevel on the sides of the bottom bracket once the rubber has been removed. 3. Flatten the round portion of the lower mount to make it slightly oval. This will allow the strut to slide into the lower knuckle. Unfortunately this is as far as I got. The overall extended length of the Cardone strut is too short to allow for it to pass thru the top mount on the Reatta (even with the suspension at full compression using a floor Jack. As ErnieR stated, the top of the piston needs to be extended by 2 inches to allow for the upper mount to be attached. As others have mentioned, this strut may top out on full extension… (Top photo) I am waiting on mounts for the sway bar, but it should work (middle photo). There is not a lot of insertion depth of the lower strut housing into the knuckle, so I am looking at using a high strength bolt through the modified lower mounting hole as an extra margin of safety. (Last photo) I have not ordered extensions for the top mount as I need to validate thread size…. And my thread gauges do not fit the thread of the upper mount. I believe it is 5/8 or 16mm, but do not know threads per inch or pitch…. Thanks to all who have willingly shared knowledge/findings. This site and the members have been awesome. Thanks.