Leaderboard

Below is a photo of me going into a curve really hard on the Tail of The Dragon. I was pushing it hard enough that I could feel the front tires walking toward the outside of the curve. If you use some imagination you might think the rear tire is about to lift off the pavement. I wish my friend in his blue Cobra replica behind me had been a little closer going into that curve. He would have noticed it if the tire came off the ground and told me about it. I think if I'd had the new Cardone struts on my Reatta with less extended length and less travel the inside rear wheel might've had daylight under it. In this situation I don't see that as being a problem. I don't think that inside rear tire was providing much grip anyway. 🙂

That sway bar bracket acts as a locator and probably assists the strut clamp in keeping the control arm from "walking" up the strut. There will be some finagling to install the Cardone pieces since the only things that are the same between the original and the Cardone is the diameter of the tube and the shaft. I have a feeling the swap can be done. The travel length does concern me but creative mounting may resolve that. The longer travel may be because the correct strut hangs a couple of inches below the clamp and control arm. I can't imagine that the suspension travel differed greatly between the 93 Allante and the earlier models. The 93 went to a more conventional setup with coil springs and control arms albeit with speed dependent dampening built into the strut. The 93 mounting didn't require the extra length. When I realized Rock Auto had the listing incorrect I started a return but changed my mind since they were so inexpensive. I thought it would be a worthwhile experiment for the price.

Hi Ronnie: I do not have a fuel pressure gauge but I think that my grandson may have one. The ICM makes a lot of since I know that the way it is acting that something is heating up and then it stops. Let it cool down and then it starts again. Thanks for your help. We will check these out. LK

Hi Larry. Welcome to the forum! I know you have replaced fuel system components, but have you put a fuel pressure tester on the fuel rail and watched to see if you lose pressure when the engine dies. If not you should do that. Instructions are here for doing that. Fuel Pressure Testing Once you know the fuel pressure is staying above 35 psi when the engine dies, you can start troubleshooting the ignition system. We can help with that. The Ignition Control Module (ICM) is a common cause of the engine dying once it heats up, and then starting up again when it cools off.

That was my thought when I decided to keep them and experiment. The indent for the bolt shouldn't take but a little grinding. I found the clamps by searching "custom coil over suspension". Could be something one of those vendor has. Thinking a "u" shaped bracket that can be bolted to the control arm.

They are already sent some over to the powder coater for painting and will ship in about a week. Just ordered the struts and and clamps. I figure if they don't work for me I can always give them to 2seater for a Christmas present...

Could it be possible to use the lower mounting on the ‘93 Allante strut to keep aligned vertically in the lower mount (in a higher location that the OEM strut) to make up for the shorter travel and lack of indent for the pinch bolt? There are openings in the lower mount that may be adaptable for this purpose. Just a thought… Need to take measurements ..,

" eliminate the Bosch anti-locks " Have been thinking about replacing with a much more common Teves. Block diagram and pressures are the same, has a larger accumulator. I like ABS.

My engine is a mutt made of parts from various LN3 model years, so it is all LN3. I guess an L27 from the 91 Reatta would have some advantages being a true Series 1 engine.

Interesting. 5" travel may work. I'm more concerned about over extension than bottoming. How much shock travel does a street car need? This depends on what type of suspension you have. It differs between straight axle suspensions and independent suspensions. On straight axle suspension systems, there is a 1 to 1 ratio between the movement of your shock and your wheel. That means if your wheel moves one inch, your shock extends or compresses one inch. In these applications 2.5 inches of shock travel in both directions (compression and extension) should generally be enough. Depending on the way your suspension is set up, you may need more. If you want to limit body roll for stiffer handling, you may want less travel than that. But even in these cases, your shock should not be thing limiting your suspension—ie being fully extended to keep the car from experiencing body roll. For independent suspension systems, shocks do not require as much travel. That’s because the control arm acts as a lever. So, while your shock may only be moving an inch, your wheel could be traveling two inches. It could be moving three inches. It all depends on where your lower shock is located. The closer your shock is to your wheel, the closer to 1:1 that motion ratio will be. When measuring for shock travel on an independent suspension system, start with wheel travel. Make sure it can move 2.5” in both directions. To check this, measure between your upper and lower shock mount when your suspension is fully compressed and at full droop. This will tell you how much overall stroke you’ll need to keep from bottoming out or topping out your shock.

heres a few pics of what I have going on

Tomorrow is the 7th wedding anniversary for my wife and I. We were celebrating tonight so I washed up the reatta and we went in style with the top down 🙂. I'm always amazed at how good the 32 year old paint shines up.

They went one field goal ahead of Bama. Beating Alabama is huge deal in Knoxville. It's like winning the Superbowl.

Go Vols!

It looks like all 0f the Reatta owners have purchased a set of clamps, because they are sold out.