Leaderboard

After a couple hundred miles operating flawlessly with the Turbo Memcal, I decided to try an experiment to localize the problem child. I copied the PROM portion of the turbo Memcal to chip so I could reinstall the Moates adapter. This is the same information included in the Memcal, but split into two parts, if that makes any sense. I disconnected the battery to make this changeover. Upon startup, it stalled once but the second start proved to keep running and gradually smoothed out. I went through all the diagnostic data and everything looked good plus a short drive went well. Since the adapter also includes a chip change socket, I dropped in the SC chip I had burned and used previously and which seemed to work fine, but I think it has a flaw. The engine started and idled, but the check engine light came on and the temperature gauge was inoperative. Entering diagnostics showed no communication with the engine, again. Shutdown the engine and reinstalled the Turbo chip it was running on just a few minutes before and everything returned to normal. I did this once more and the SC chip acted up immediately. Apparently it is the culprit. I can change just the chip without disconnecting the battery every time and I did notice the check engine light flashes rapidly while in diagnostics for a while after swapping chips and does so until it has assimilated the new information, then it slows down to the normal slow blink. I ordered a handful of new chips as I have found I have a few used ones I have that will not completely reset under UV light, even after multiple exposures. Nothing lasts forever I guess.

If the engine is cranking over slowly when trying to start, the first thing I would do is clean the battery cables where they connect to the battery and tighten them properly. If the engine still turns slowly when trying to start I would bite the bullet and replace the battery. It is way over due for replacement. For the other problems you mentioned, it would be better if you start a new topic for each problem to avoid confusion when discussing them.

I have to say that hopefully with the last of my repairs I have now a much better opinion of this '88 Black Reatta. Since I have bought it I [Kendall, Bob and myself] have done a number of repairs; ignition module, CCRT module, ECM, struts [front and rear], rack and pinion, timing gear, chain, and cam magnet, harmonic balancer, crank sensor, non stock muffler on a non stock exhaust, and right front caliper, caliper bracket and brake pads. While the list looks long and pricey I think I am less then $1000.00 in parts and labor on top of my purchase price of $1000.00 so the car is still a good value. I also think the interior is at least an 8 as is the body. Of all the Reattas I have owned I had liked this one the least because of the nagging repairs, mostly the louder exhaust [now fixed because of new muffler] and the timing [now fixed with a new crank sensor]. It is now tied for second with the '89 Black that I had [that was bought by 2seaters son] with the 'vert last. The 'vert is a solid car giving me no troubles but I just don't like 'verts as much as coupes. The one that got away from me was a 1989 Red/Tan that I bought from a guy about 40 miles away. It needed a front cradle bolt system repair, but Kdirk and I parted it out. Probably should have "saved" it as it was a nice car, but I guess at the time I wanted parts more and the original Black was still running good.

I washed my car last Friday. The farmers are harvesting crops around here, so dust is easily accumulated. We are in peak fall colors. I’ve seen a few folks from Minnesota post snow covered Reattas. Burrrrrr