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Hopefully my last update! Yes, I determined that the speed sensor was faulty but not the reason for the engine problem. In my last update I explained that when I went to remove the spark plug wire from the coil pack the coil tip for number 4 wire came off and was still inside of the plug wire. Obviously the coil pack must now be replaced. By the way this coil pack was less than a year old. I used to think that NGK was quality stuff but not no more! So I figured I’m not sure if this was the original problem so just to be safe I ordered a new ignition module as well. I installed both devices today and couldn’t wait to test drive my car. drove it a total of 25 miles and it ran like a dream. This is the first time since I purchased the car last spring that the check engine light is off. And yes I have learned how to use the diagnostic in the dashboard and it really is amazing that they had this technology back then. For the record I no longer have the 89 because of financial issues back in 2017. I missed the car so much that is why I purchased the 1990 vert. however I really do miss the CRT. I am so excited to be back in the saddle (so to speak) I love this car! Glad I didn’t drive it off a cliff!

I do it all myself. Wash, wax and keep it clean. I put leather cleaner/conditioner on the seats and protectant on the dash and other plastic parts. I've never tried to detail it to show quality. It's not a low mileage, show quality car. I drive it several times a week in good weather. I would rather be driving than sitting in a lawn chair behind it at a car show.

I have made a key with a nailfile before. 90 has VATS. Proper key will turn but must also have proper resistor to start. First thing I do for a new car is make sure I have at least two sets of keys that work.

I quit using the radio in the Reatta years ago when the capacitors went bad causing that annoying "cracking" sound via the speakers. No radio - no power antenna problem. I also don't use the cassette player, not because it doesn't function (I think it might still function), but because I've seen many horror stories on the ROJ about cassettes being stuck, etc. On the other hand, I routinely listen to either the radio or CDs in my daily driver because I'm not concerned about the problems as noted with the Reatta.

I fall into the DIY category. Over 135K miles on the odometer. Mine, too, is not show quality, but it still garners a lot of attention.

This has been a good thread. I've really enjoyed reading it. Sounds to me like you are to the point that you can drive the car knowing that you have the programming about where it needs to be. Good job.

At this time, I think this subject can be put to bed for the foreseeable future. I didn't really do a detailed recording and tweaking of the timing table but I did make changes based on some assumptions. In my experience, I have found GM's programming to be pretty well matched to the mechanical attributes of the engine. Sure, it is possible to make gains around the edges, especially if other things have been changed physically. With that in mind, I initially added ten degrees of timing to the entire table just to see if it felt better, and it did in many ways. After some testing it proved to be too much but I reasoned the overall progression had been scienced out pretty well by GM. I then took two degrees out overall, leaving an eight degree advance from stock. I then removed another six degrees from the area around idle speed and load. This appears to be a happy combination. Cold start also has improved on its own as the ECM learned what it wants. In any case, the engine feels nice and responsive, and full throttle while rolling in second gear to the shift shows a handful of knock counts right near the shift point. The S/C makes a very satisfying scream as well. I will monitor this on occasion, but it seems pretty happy. Indirectly related to this thread, I neglected to reinstall a couple of spacer washers under the passengers end of the strut brace when I reassembled after the engine change. This causes intermittent contact of the large Hydac accumulator which is audible in the car. Perhaps a blessing in disguise as it seems the pump runs more often than it should. The brakes work fine and no warning lights. Today I had the chance to check the pressures and volume with my test rig. I found that it took 24 full peddle strokes to finally get a hard pedal, a testament to the large capacity of the Hydac. With the key on the pump operates in the textbook pressure range, 2600 psi off and 2000psi to restart. I also found my high pressure needle valve on the return to reservoir leaks by a bit, but that also seems to be a blessing?? I generally crack the valve just a bit and let the system build pressure while returning a bit to the reservoir so it continuously cycles. It appeared I had to leave the valve in what felt like a closed position to get the pump to build pressure but it was in fact letting some fluid through at all times, so all is well there. What did seem to come from this was the pump seems to build pressure more quickly and can tolerate more leak by to the reservoir after the circulation of fluid from pump to reservoir, almost like it was a bleeding operation. No empirical data to support that, but that was it appeared to be? Testing of the residual gas charge in the accumulator indicates ~900 psi remains after about six years of use. I am going to monitor for a while before I reinstall the spacer washers.

I had my ‘88 professionally polished and 5 year ceramic coated earlier this year. It has 61,000 miles currently and I bought it with 57,000 miles in July 2000. The paint was a bit worse for the wear and I’m trying to preserve originality as long as possible. I do the interior myself and with the exception of repainting the engine cover, haven’t done any detailing of the engine bay.

This looks like the start of a great cheesy 90s action movie. I love this photo