Leaderboard

I used one thickness of the card and slid it closest to the crank shaft Like I said if you are running good you're probably good.

Then keep the 3800, is one of the most reliable there is. If must have more, an L67 has been done. Many times. But then the trams is the weak spot.

That is my understanding as well? We swapped coil/ICM's as well so we are missing something here. The continuity test to the ECM is pretty much for peace of mind as long as all the work to free the harness has been done.

I would suspect the spring loaded push switch on the jamb at the front of the door (other end from striker).

The door ajar switch is the one on the end of the latch at the end of the door. Been a long time since I did anything with that but if I had to guess I believe you take off the latch to get at it. However once again I don't believe that is causing the drain. But I could be wrong...

Ronnie is correct there are three switches for the door but no module. I don't believe this is the reason for the drain...

I'm about to confess something, so don't hate me.... Last week Rock Auto sent me an email re: Reatta closeouts. I do check the closeouts often. Listed was a Monroe front strut and rear shock, one each remaining that would fit my '91. I jumped on and purchased both of them. They came yesterday via Fedex. The strut and shock went into my inventory (aka stash)! PS: I'm not a hoarder in my own mind...just sayin'

Well this morning I went out to the garage and said to myself "I know my Reatta will never be faster then 2seaters but maybe I can make it prettier". So after dyeing the carpets [a couple of weeks or so ago] I decided a little detailing was in order. So i use the "Invisible Glass" product everyone was raving about [works great] and then a wax job. Wiped down the vinyl inside so it all looks pretty good. Next week I will go under the hood and clean that next.