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I no longer use my fobs anymore as I don't carry anything of value in my car and think that the cost of repairs for anyone breaking in is greater then the value of anything I would have in the car. As a matter of fact I don't even lock my trunk. I adjust the rubber stops out a bit further so that if I ever wanted to lock my trunk I would have to close it with more force. There is a rubber seal to protect any rain water from getting in. I also have found that while people admire our cars they stay away so there is safety in that. Getting back to your issue. There is a little rubber boot in the actuator arm that probably has a slice in it causing the "throw" of the actuator arm to not push the locking arm. What I have done is put a small piece of rubber hose inside the rubber boot hole to help with that. You will have to remove the inner door panel to do that. Regarding the trunk lock. Does the button activate the trunk latch to work? After owning Reattas for 15 years everything works on all my cars , but I no longer use a remote, or lock my doors and trunk lid. Never had a problem...

Another thing is these key fob systems for the Reatta aren’t quite as advanced as what we have on modern cars today. The range on them is extremely short compared to modern cars. Someone might have to correct me, but I believe they only reach 15 feet away from the car. Modern cars can do more like 100 feet or so. So you have to be pretty close to the car to get the remote to communicate with the car.

Don’t worry, it’s not as complicated to program a remote as you think. I did it and I’m a newbie to doing these kinds of things. Unfortunately, to me it sounds like your problem isn’t the key fob. If the electric unlock switch on your drivers door isn’t working, a new key fob won’t fix your issue. The power lock could be dead or you could have a wiring issue. A common problem I’ve observed is the rod that goes in the door to the lock pull will start sticking and needs lubricant at the joints. But I have seen dead electric locks on two Reattas. Does the electric release button in the glovebox work to unlock/pop your trunk?

The driver's side door doesn't unlock using the remote (when it works ... signal is iffy from it for whatever reason ... takes several tries ... new battery didn't help). It also doesn't unlock using the automatic switch next to it on the door. The passenger's side so far is working. To unlock the driver's side, I must either use the key or push the button up manually from the inside. So from what you're saying, there may be a correlation between this and the keyfob not working quite as it should, as if it's sending week signal. I can't get it to unlock the trunk at all with the fob. I haven't looked at the instructions mentioned here yet for programming. I looked at the ones that are listed with the Cadillac fob. It looks crazy complicated.

In the specs for that product it says FCC number: AB00702T

I only have one fob set up on my car. Did you try programming the remote you have? One of the cars I had had an electrical issue that caused the electric locks to fail causing the remote programming to not work. The remote I listed is the ab00702t remote.

Your problem might not be a bad keyfob battery. You mentioned that you only have one keyfob. Your Reatta remote lock/unlock system is expecting two keyfobs. You might have to reprogram your keyfob twice in a row in order to satisfy the Reatta remote lock/unlock system. Go to the top of this forum and find the "How-To-Guides". Dropdown to "Accessories" then to "Power Locks and Windows" and then to "Remote Transmitters (RKE) Programming".

Actually think you want an ab00702t

The one above is $69. I paid about $100 for my Cadillac fob from ECRP.

https://replacemyremote.com/1993-1996-cadillac-4-button-keyless-entry-remote-fob-abo0702t.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwm6KUBhC3ARIsACIwxBi7JznamsGPTWSNtr82CwT5rqKenl_FYl5yZcAcleY96uQn2tJE3OcaAs5CEALw_wcB

I believe its your actuator that is causing the issue. Anybody else?