Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/13/2022 in all areas

  1. Found this on Jalopnik site, not mine. Getting lots of comments. https://jalopnik.com/at-3-500-are-these-two-buick-reattas-better-than-one-1848337671?fbclid=IwAR2CjeLOb2mA_hRI5rPVP-GBRmlVH2RZy7BPuUGtLX9DWTqVBU-yNiHl-_w
    1 point
  2. Not saying it's not possible but I don't recall fuel fouled spark plugs ever causing backfiring through the intake. My experience is a fouled spark plug would just cause a miss or a dead cylinder. It sounds like something is causing a plug(s) to fire when an intake valve is open. As you say, like when a distributor is 180 degrees out but I don't see how a crank trigger ignition could do that. It's almost as if there is some crossfiring going on between spark plug wires.
    1 point
  3. I apologize in advance because I sometimes get confused easily. It seems like you are talking about two different engine problems at once. You said you have an idling issue so you cleaned the IAC which would effect the idle. Did that make the engine idle smoothly? Then you go on to say the motor starts shaking at 45-50 miles per hour. Although it is possible something is causing a poor idle as well as the shaking I'm pretty certain it's not the IAC. As I said in a previous post, my experience has been that the ignition system is the first place to look when you have the engine missing (shaking) at low RPM and under a load. About 45-50 MPH is when the torque converter locks up and the transmission shifts to fourth about the same time. When that happens it puts more load on the engine and lowers the RPMs a lot. The next time the engine shaking starts at that speed, keep the same pressure on the accelerator pedal with your right foot and touch the brake pedal with your left foot. Just press the brake pedal down enough to cause the torque converter to unlock but not enough to apply the brakes. You should see the RPM go up when the torque converter unlocks. See if doing that causes the shaking to stop. If the shaking stops it is a pretty good indication that the ignition system is causing the engine shaking.
    1 point
  4. I misunderstood you @2seater but yeah guess you didn't see that the air comes through the vents on bi level, on all other settings at the floor and the defrost of course.
    1 point
  5. That is the way I view my Reatta. I really enjoy it but if something major happened that was expensive to fix (like a transmission failure) I would have to let it go or part it out.
    0 points
  6. There is another ignition module on the '88/89s. It's located on the column. It was replaced by the previous owner and left with me. I did have a no start issue some time ago and Kendall quickly diagnosed it so we took the replaced one out and put the "old" one back in. Kendall was sure it was good as he ran some test which escapes me. However it always started after that first all the time until lately. I have decided to give up on the car. I put on about 15,000 miles [mostly business] and as I only paid $1000.00 for it [Silver award winner] it owes me nothing and I don't want to run the risk of getting stranded by the side of the road. That's almost funny as the Red has over 300,000 miles and that will be the new daily driver. As the Red is in Texas I will be driving the 'vert down to get it and leave the 'vert there. And yes until I leave for Texas the 'vert is the daily driver. That's life and sometimes hard choices have to be made. So the car will sit until spring in the driveway until I get warm enough weather to swap some parts that are nicer then what I have on the Red and either 2seater [or his sons] gets it or it goes out to Gibsons. I already like the additional room in the garage.
    0 points
×
×
  • Create New...