Leaderboard

I will look at it tomorrow as I hate it when work and Pickleball gets in the way. Car will be ice cold tomorrow so it will be a better test. I do think I am on the right path. I'm so optimistic I think that I will be putting the ECM back in it's place and buttoning everything back up inside the car.

Here are the results I got testing my EGR valve using overrides in diagnostics. Before starting engine after sitting overnight all 3 EGR valves will click when pushing the overrides buttons. On cold startup and entering diagnostics with engine running. ES02 (EGR Solenoid #1) - Rougher than normal idle ES03 (EGR Solenoid #2) - Rough idle with some stumbling ES04 (EGR Solenoid #3) - Really rough idle and stumbling badly Engine warmed up to 170* with "loop" light lit and O2 sensor light flashing with engine running ES02 (EGR Solenoid #1) - Rough idle but still keeps running. ES03 (EGR Solenoid #2) - Rough idle and stumbling like it wants to die but will keep running ES04 (EGR Solenoid #3) - Stumbles badly and dies in a few seconds I checked several times with same results and verified the override numbers I posted are correct. Seems our readings are opposite as far as the override numbers. Could you test again using the same override numbers I posted above?

Well, the damage is in between lenses of the objective lens set, which are cemented together, so repair is out of the picture. It will now become one that is kept in the car as it still functions but isn't a crisp image.

Spoke to Kendall [my mechanic friend] last night and he suggested I take a look at two items, the TPS [Throttle Position Sensor] and the EGR valve. I am leaning towards the EGR first because the throttle has excellent response when the engine is cold with no bucking. The EGR however is "out" of the system until the car is warm and then steps in to help with emissions. I am able to "override" the EGR through the touch screen and will do that today. I really hope that is it as have 3 more in the parts bin that were all removed from Reattas I had parted out after driving them so I am sure each one works. So far I have swapped put the Mass Air Flow sensor, spark plug wires, Ignition Module/Coils and cleaned all the ground wire connections [behind the battery, the ones near the radiator, and the battery connections]. Another idea Kendall had was to replace the water temperature sensor. I don't believe that is the issue because I see the water temperature on the gauge page fluctuate just as it should going from "cold" to operating temperature to as high as 208 and then back down to where it stabilizes at around 195

Hi Teresa, here is the thread I started back when I did it for the first time. I found the advice very helpful, so figured I would share in case it helps you too.

Welcome to the forum George! If the low oil level sensor in the oil pan is causing your problem it can be disabled (bypassed) by just disconnecting the electrical connector and grounding it. That sensor is nothing but a float switch that opens when the oil level in the pan drops too low on a 1990 model. (see photo below) IF the problem is caused by low oil pressure sensor I wouldn't bypass it. I would figure out what is causing the problem. We can help you with that.

Yes, 95ish Bonneville 16x7 with "ABS" center cap. Later ones were just 16x6.5 but GTP had a 16x8.

bonneville.

Today marks the 80th anniversary of the attack on Pearl Harbor. Many of you know that my dad was a Pearl Harbor survivor, Battleship USS Oklahoma. I read in the news today that another USS Oklahoma survivor is attending the ceremony today at the USS Arizona memorial...he's 101 years old. My mother's only brother served under Patton's 3rd army and was killed in Belgium during the Battle of the Bulge. While reading topics in the "other forum" I find out that Ronnie's dad also served under Patton's 3rd and was in Belgium. Let us not forget those who served our country in time of war.