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It wasn't the worse for me to be out there. I also scored a like brand new Goodyear Gatorback serpentine belt. Charged me $5.00 retail is $30.00...

Well I feel kind of stupid. I was out at Gibson's weeks ago and thought I would want to do the Delco ignition module/coil pack upgrade so I got what I needed and when I got home I set them on the side of the workbench and promptly forgot about them. For the last week I was getting a "bucking" under hard acceleration and thought MAF sensor. Swapped it in took it for a drive and no better and left it in. Had an extra Magnavox ignition module/coil pack swapped that in, car ran worse. So now I figure I'm on the right track, same symptoms only runs worse, I need an Delco ignition/coil pack, but I don't have the conversion plate. Never looked at the work bench just jumped in the car [I swapped back in the original Magnavox ignition and ran over to Gibson's and get a conversion plate and another Delco Ignition Module/Coil Pack. Get home set it on the work bench and now what do I see? What I needed just waiting for me to install the stuff I just got at Gibsons. So now I have more conversion plates then I have Reattas...

No problem thanks again!

UPDATE: A big shout out to Jim Finn for getting me a working servo, for half the price of a remanufactured one, just got it today and installed it and took a drive works like new! Thank you everyone your advice it's much appreciated!

1990 Reatta Convertible...so maybe different for some reason... A-ha! I HAD to remove the instrument Panel Cluster Trim Plate (pg.8C-3)...then the Knee Bolster (pg. 8C-3 & 8C-4)...this was a trick. Someone before me broke a LOT of connections attempting this. Thanks! Made it easier for me to remove. But now I have to do damage control. Ugh. ...then I had to remove the Instrument Panel Steering Column Reinforcement Plate (pg. 8C-5). THEN the magic! Seat all the way back, towel over the door threshhold to "save" my back (it didn't save my back...I'll recover eventually). Two silver cylinders on the passenger side AWAY FROM the steering column. By the way...nothing to do with the steering column...and definitely not reachable without removing above panels. In fact, even with everything removed, I had to push the flasher cans up, out of the spring clips, then remove the clips themselves (with needle-nosed plies and a flat-head screwdriver) to make enough space to work the cans down through the resultant opening. I LOVE this car, but...uh...thanks Buick!

I went to open my pass through door today, unlocked it and it wouldn't open. The right side wants to fall but the left side feels locked still. At first I thought the handle latch was broken like my cubbard ones that snapped. Found out the latch does not work like those and simply slides a metal bar left and right when unlocking and locking. I took the door panel apart and realized the the metal bar wasn't pushing the mechanism open all the way and not unlocking it for the metal pins to clear. Instead of trying to take it apart more and breaking something I simply super glued a small piece of cardboard on the metal slide to extend it out enough. Sorry if confusing but here's pictures to help.

Fuel problem solved Jim Finn saved me he had the parts I needed now I can put the reatta back together.

Kevin, I have added your information from your previous two post to the ROJ How-to guides. I've changed the wording slightly and rearranged paragraphs slightly to fit in as much info as possible from both posts. Bumper Components & Disassembly If you see anything that needs to be changed (including the title), or you have anything that you would like to add, just let me know and I will be happy to make the changes.

I am also working on replacing the metal part of my front bumper because of a small dent on the nose. I got a junkyard bumper assembly in nice shape, just the wrong color. Stripping the driving lights, grille, and mounts went fairly quickly. The speed nuts holding the rub strip came off well after spraying with WD40, didn't break off any plastic studs. I also had trouble with the plastic rivets at first. But figured out if I sprayed them with the WD40 on the backside of the bumper, then, again from the backside of the bumper, I inserted a short tiny screwdriver thru the legs of the rivet. Then holding the screwdriver on both ends just push the center shaft of the rivet thru, and they popped out far enough to easily pull out from the bumper face. I has to rotate some of the rivets by hand to make working inside the gap on the backside of the bumper easier. A nail or similar tool would probably also work too, but the handle on the tiny screwdriver gave me something to grip. Now that I have just the bare metal left, next job will be polishing the metal. Just waiting for some warm weather outside to do it.

Ronnie, please feel free to use it. The first time I removed bumpers from a Reatta I was discouraged by how much disassembly was involved. This setup looks nice on the car, but is a real dog to take apart for repainting, or polishing the aluminum. Getting the plastic rivets out is the worst part, they are difficult to remove without damaging them, and I've not found a really good technique for this. I use various small tools (jewler screwdrivers, small pin punches, mini long nose pliers primarily) but they still aren't easy to get out. I'm of the opinion that GM probably intended these fasteners to be disposable, with new ones being used after a repair or repaint of the bumper skin. It just makes a lot of extra work to try and save them for reuse. Another note is that the rub strips tend to dimple where the mounting posts are molded into the back side. Once the self-tapping nuts have been installed, they pull inward on the strip, and given the soft nature of the plastic, it deforms easily at the mount points, especially those on the corners where the bumper curves around. One needs to be careful not to over tighten and make this dimpling effect worse. As posted previously, once removed a heat gun will smooth it out again, but there is a certain technique to it and it's not so hard to scorch the plastic if you aren't careful not to over do it.

The bumper impact bar (only the top surface is visible when the bumper is fully assembled with all trim) is anodized aluminum, unless it was previously painted for some reason. I have seen a few cars done this way but it isn't common, and isn't factory original. With that out of the way, there are multiple components involved in both the front and rear bumpers. There is a plastic bumper skin, painted vehicle color, attached to the impact bar (aluminum part) with a bunch of plastic push rivets. Then there is a rub strip (may be either black or body color depending on how car was optioned or subsequently repainted), attached with self-tapping nuts over plastic pegs molded into the rub strip from inside the impact bar. On the rear bumper, there are two bump guards near the center under the license plate, these are mounted with machine nuts on integral threaded studs. There is also a lower valance painted black that has a notch for the exhaust. This is attached with several screws and some brackets at the outside ends. On the front bumper, the setup is essentially the same without the bump guards. Your car may be equipped with a front plate holder, if so it is screwed directly into the rub strip at the top, and into two metal angle brackets at the bottom. Disassembly of either bumper is time consuming, as the bumpers need to be removed from the car to remove the rub strips and plastic skins from the aluminum portion. Getting the plastic push rivets out of the bumper skin is also a real job as there are so many of them. Patience is the key factory here, along with good tools and a padded surface to set the bumper assembly on while working on it to prevent scratches or other damage. Once disassembled, prep, priming and painting is done by standard procedure for flexible plastic body panels. A good urethane paint with flex additive is heavily recommended to prevent spider webbing cracks from forming in the paint if these piece are flexed at all. A heat gun can be used to smooth out small dimples that may have formed in the plastic pieces - particularly the rubs strips - as the plastic has a memory and will return to original shape when reheated. As with all auto paint, good prep and good product is everything. Poor prep or cheap paint will render a sub-standard finish. One stage paint is not suggested. Kevin

Well I worked at it over 2 seperate days. I ended up removing the metal plate also. I finally was able to see it but had one heck of a time prying it out so I could remove and replace it. What ever engineer decided to put it there out to be shot.

I'm big, old and stiff so I would take the seat out before attempting to change the flasher. Removing the seat is easy and it should only take a few minutes to get it out. The instructions for doing it are here: Seat Removal Instructions

Make sure all 3 bulbs in the rear are working. Assuming the bulbs are burning I would change the flasher. It is an inexpensive can type flasher on a '90 model that you can find at most auto parts stores. I think it may be hard to get to in order to replace it. Here are instructions for replacing it: Turn Signal Flasher Replacement