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Another thing that can happen during deceleration is opening and closing of the EGR valves. There are three openings in the EGR that are individually controlled with solenoids by the ECM. Perhaps one of them is sticking causing the engine to die when decelerating or idling. You can do some tests in the onboard diagnostics you could do to determine of the EGR solenoids are working properly.

There is a programmed Deceleration Fuel Cut Off that is normal under certain conditions. When coasting down, it cuts fuel off to reduce emissions. I don't know what the exact conditions are offhand, but the momentary drop in rpm can can be normal. That said, the engine should not quit altogether.

You won't get much flack for mods you make to your car. Members of this forum do it all the time. I fixed your photo. It looks like the side molding is still on and has just been painted. What was the part number of the Landrover accumulator you used. That might help someone else who needs one in the future.

This is the little town where I live. About 6000 people and about a dozen traffic lights. Just the way I like it. I posted this on the other forum to.

https://reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=59:interior-lights&id=186:shifter-illumination-panel-repair

Thanks. Very good idea. Although l have reservations about taking the cable off the transmission lever. I was concerned that was a inexpensive repair. Although it has held. That is a clear way to determine. Wish me luck!

Looks like 2seater and I were posting at the same time and are pretty much in agreement.

I'm not a Reatta expert but if it were me I would carry a fuel pressure tester so you can check the fuel pressure on the spot when it sputters and dies before restarting the engine to rule that out as the problem. You saying it is harder to start than the other cars has me leaning toward the fuel pump as being the problem. Read through my recent post about my fuel pump problems and you will see some similarities to the problem you are having. The crankshaft position sensor most of the time will just go bad and the engine won't start again but I've heard of them doing as you describe is happening to your car. The MAF sensor can cause similar problems as you describe too. Try unplugging the MAF driving to see if the same symptoms continue as before or change. The check engine light will come on but driving it with the MAF unplugged won't hurt the engine

I agree that replacement of the crank sensor may be indicated. I found this the hard way too, it normally fails and stays failed but I had one that operated much like described. Frustrating to find when it seems to self heal. If fuel pressure is good, can you watch one sensor at a time in diagnostics? Thinking something else may be failing but still working and giving bad information. The MAF sensor comes to mind.

Welcome to the forum! Good to see another Tennessee resident here. Do you have any codes stored in diagnostics? Has this car ever had the crankshaft position sensor replace on it?

My wife pulled out of the garage and I stood there admiring the beauty of the '89 triple blue Reatta.