Leaderboard

The donor car went to salvage this morning. It was simply time to get it out of the way and #2 son volunteered to do the deed. I know there will undoubtedly be something that comes up that may make me regret not holding it for another day, week or month, but I am glad it is done. Surprisingly, I recovered half of my purchase price from the scrap, but that will go to my helpers instead. It looked pretty forlorn with donut spares on two wheels, no hood, right fender, both mirrors, door windows taped in place due to no motors, etc.. but that left us with spare stock wheels and tires for our three cars.

Why don't you try this so we are sure the pump is actually pumping fluid and not air. Turn the key on and open one of the rear bleeders and put some pressure on the brake pedal. Tghis will cause the pump to run and fluid to come out of the bleeder [under pressure]. If that happens then we know that the pump is working and that fluid is moving.

My older brother is really into tuning. He would probably talk to you all day about it if you wanted to lol. He's got a flow bench setup and stuff kind of like you do and is also really into porting heads and stuff like that. He mostly uses a megasquirt ECU platform rather than trying to tune an OE ECU. Most of that stuff is way over my head, although I do want to learn myself at some point. But all that said. He might could help you out or at least give you some ideas. If you were actually interested I could get you in touch.

1988 Buick Reatta Motorweek retro review just got uploaded to YouTube. https://youtu.be/Oq1qBKQFMnY

I posted the following under a different topic, but cut and pasted below since it seems to put a final touch on most of my issues. Still have issues with the Cruise Control servo, but that's another page...... The MAF was replaced (due to code (E034) and then I got a code for the Cam Sensor (E041). Replaced both which were of no help. I then got a code for the Ignition System (E042) and after checking and finding that two cylinders were not getting spark, I then replaced the Ignition coil and ignition control module. The car now runs great (at least for the 25-30 miles that I've driven since). Turns out, I suspect, that the ICM was probably the original culprit all along in spite of the E034 and E041 codes. Funny thing is that the codes popped up one at a time and not all at once. Had the E042 code shown up first, a replacement ICM and coil pack may have cured the poor performance right off the bat. As it is, I spent way too much on trouble shooting, especially with the replacement MAF (and also the catalytic converter) before checking the ignition coils. I'd suggest that anyone encountering extremely poor performance start off by testing the ignition coil and ICM.

Great photos!

Southwestern PA is generally beautiful this time of year with colored leaves and fall foliage. Our leaves began to fall off the trees early this year due to dry/drought conditions in early September, but unfortunately, this changed over to an extremely wet last couple weeks. As such, the usual brilliance was muted before the inevitable leaf drop. The trees on my property consist primarily of white oak so the leaf drop is pretty steady over about 6-8 weeks so clean up is an annual headache (backache) for, you guessed it, 6-8 weeks. This year was also heavy in acorn production and necessary clean-up.