Leaderboard

Update- Replaced the accumulator with another one. The annoying whistling stopped. Problem solved.

I use cast iron wheeled dollies to easily move the car around in the garage during winter. Once on the dollies, I can push it laterally tight up against the garage side wall to make the most of space in the garage.

Is very simple: brane fade. Shouldabin B552 BCM memory reset (usually happens when change battery). Remind me not to post from memory.

Back in the day when I was parting out Reattas I usually had an extra battery laying around. But a couple of years ago the ner do well family in the rental across the street needed a battery for their GM car so I gave it to them. No more extras! lol

I called the yard and they didn't have anything good that would fit. They thought they did but when they looked it was leaking. Apparently got damaged in the wreck. The battery practically sits on the front bumper in the Equinox. On the way back from the yard I stopped at Walmart and picked up a "Everlast Max" that exceeded the factory specs for $139 with the same 3 year warranty as the others. That saved me $40. It is made by Johnson Controls, an American company, but I'm sure it is all Chinese materials inside. I had to do something so the wife could drive the car. After charging overnight, all the old battery would do was burn the lights dimly and the starter would click. Since it died all at once sitting in the garage I'm thinking it probably shorted out from sulfate built up in the bottom. It is 9 years old so I got the good out of it. With the new battery it starts right up and I'm back in business. 🙂 Thanks for all the suggestions.

Like I said I used to use the dollies but discovered I can back my car tight into the corner along the back wall of my garage. Size of my garage? 22x28. 2seater has seen how I park my cars. So the way it works is one Reatta in storage along the back wall, one Reatta on the right side of the garage for daily use, and my wife's car on the left.

Got the tee shirt🙄

Been there, done that... a lot. 🙂

B448 is a good one.

I would check to see if there are any BCM codes stored in diagnostics that might give a clue to what is going on.

Busy day on the 'vert today. Topped off the fuel, changed oil, polished the chrome wheels, put tire shine on the tires, and waxed the car. Put a cover on it and now it's ready for winter. Hopefully the next time I fire it up is for it's trip to Texas...

The following is quoted from RockAuto's Newsletter. I thought it was something we should think about since the blower motor module routinely goes out on our Reattas and is expensive to replace new. --------------------------------------------------------------------- "Good Idea to Replace the Two Parts Simultaneously The heat and air conditioning systems in some late-model vehicles (i.e. Ford trucks) combine the Blower Motor and Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor into one part. Combining the parts probably saves money on the assembly line. Vehicle manufacturers may also have realized it is a good idea to replace the two parts simultaneously; especially if it appears the Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor is what failed. Vehicles built in the 1900s used relatively simple blower motor resistors. Turning down the blower fan speed switch on the dash adjusted the variable resistor so that it converted more current into heat, less current passed on to the blower motor and the motor spun the fan at a slower speed. If a portion of the variable resistor burned out like a light bulb filament, then zero current or a fixed amount of current would reach the blower motor, and the fan speed would no longer be adjustable. The blower motor might always spin the fan at full blast. A failing blower motor resistor would typically not harm the blower motor and vice versa. Modern Blower Motor Control Module/Resistors use electrical current much more efficiently. A smaller amount of current is converted to waste heat, and the Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor feeds the Blower Motor pulses of current that rapidly turn it on and off (duty cycle) to maintain the desired fan speed. As the Blower Motor wears out, it may start to suck up spikes of current that exceed what the Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor was designed to deliver. Imagine a computerized relay designed to rapidly cycle a low-wattage light bulb now having to rapidly power a high-wattage table saw on and off. The Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor cannot handle this high or unpredictable current draw and fails. Connecting a new Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor to a failing Blower Motor can quickly destroy the new Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor. If the Blower Motor Control Module/Resistor needs to be replaced, then the Blower Motor should be replaced too. See the blower/resistor parts for your specific vehicle under "Heat & Air Conditioning" in the RockAuto.com catalog. Tom Taylor, RockAuto.com"

Good news that a replacement is available.

I wouldn't try to put a price on your car. Especially without seeing it. From my experience if a car doesn't sell it is overpriced for the condition or hasn't been advertised correctly. If you want top dollar for your car I think you should advertise with Hemmings and include a well thought out and honest description with lots of good photos. I looked up what Hagerty Insurance's Valuation Tool had to say about a 1988 Reatta. Hagerty has to deal with real world prices everyday so I think they are a good place to start. I actually think their values are a little high for today's market but this should be a good starting point for determining how much your car is worth. They don't ask the mileage when giving a value but I think they probably take into consideration what the average mileage would be on a car that would fit into each category. You will have to decide where your car fits into Hagerty's categories but I doubt many Reattas would be a number 1 car. I've not saw your car but by going on your description I think it would be a number 2 (Excellent) car. Weather or not it should be priced more or less than Hagerty's value would be for you to decide based on what you know about your car's condition. Be honest with yourself and look at your car as if you were buying it instead of selling it when you are determining how your car should be priced compared to Hagerty's value. Ultimately the buyer will be who determines how much money your car will actually bring when you negotiate a price and accept his offer. ----------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------

I think it is called a PCM on the Equinox but I'm not sure. A black plastic cover has to be removed and the silver box is underneath. You can just see the negative post of the battery peaking out on the right side of the computer and the hot post of the battery is under the computer. If you want to jump start the battery you would have to use the remotely mounted stud for the hot post that is under the red cover behind the PCM. I did connect a 12 volt battery to the cables to keep the computers awake while I swapped the batteries so I didn't have to reenter the all the settings.