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These pics are awesome love them cberry thanks for sharing!

The good news is that the inside one does not seal anything. It just keeps the thermostat from rattling. BTW if the surfaces are clean, that design works very well in a near impossible place. The O'ring does the sealing, all the bolt does is to keep it in place & does not need to be very tight.

I would be interested in learning how you did this some day.

Most of my driving is through the mountain roads of East Tennessee for pleasure. I have a switch on my car that allows me to turn off the TCC to prevent it from locking up. It think it makes the car feel more responsive without the converter locked. If I drive on a major road or Interstate where I cruise at speeds over 60 I flip the switch and allow the converter to lock up.

Assuming an ATYH bin (90) here is the stock table. To extract and modify requires a bunch of stuff, stock PROMs are getting to old to reflash (do not reliably erase) so use new 27C256s and a Moates adapter. Not hard once you have everything.

You can check the TCC for operation using overrides in diagnostics.

page 8D7 in 90 FSM.

You know I just looked and you can get a remanufactured Riviera booster and Master cyl off Rock auto. Without the ABS though. Personally I like the TEVES system and plan to try to keep mine with that as long as possible.

I had been having trouble with my passenger window not rolling up well so I thought I would check out the rollers and maybe replace the window motor. So last night Kendall and I started in. After removing the door panel we could see that the window mechanism uses three rollers. The bottom two rollers were loose and rolled well but the top one was bound up and would only slide in the track. This is an easier repair as the top track is held in by three screws and comes out easily. Then pry the roller off the shaft, drill out the center of the roller with a 3/8" drill bit, lube up the hole with grease and snap it back over the roller shaft. Works much better. We also did the motor as Kendall said 31 year old original motor? Do that as well. One other thing. While inside the door take a look at the rubber boot on the door lock actuator. You will see that there will be a slice in it because the door lock shaft has a sharp edge to it cutting the boot and making the door lock work sluggish. Simple fix is to force the actuator arm off that shaft [don't have to remove the actuator], install a small hose over the door lock shaft and then slide the actuator arm back over the newly installed hose on the door lock shaft. Door lock works like new and took less then 5 minutes to do.

I got some cassettes but all it does when I put it in is make clicking noises over and over and I can't eject it because the bottom part of the mechanic (the "reader") remains in the upwards position and won't recess back down. I'm pretty sure it's damaged my tape already. I've had to use more force than is comfortable to even get the door back open. To be clear, it's also not actually playing the tape. It just makes clicking noises. When I get the tape out I can see that the lower reader section of it is raised, pushing down on it actuates something and it lowers the rest of the way mechanically on it's own.

Should be, is only one connector at front of compressor.

I agree with Padgett. Why "customize" something when the Riv and Reatta is pretty much the same car and the Teves was an option on the Riv...

You should check with East Coast Reatta Parts. If they sold you new motors they should help you make them work.