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page 8D7 in 90 FSM.

So started her up this morning and the idle was back to normal. Or at leas where it normally idles (roughly 900 rpm). That seems about right. The interesting thing is I had read the IAC value in the diagnostic yesteday when it was idling at 2100 rpm and it was reading about 121. This morning it reads about 30ish. As best I can tell from the manual it should be somewhere between 0 and 50 at idle when fully warmed up. Maybe it did just stick open. Might have to take it apart and clean it in the near future. But thankfully, it looks like I can drive my Reatta to work this morning. Finally got some "top-down" weather too.

Probably too busy driving his fixed reatta

I run a 180F thermostat and bring fans in sooner, when I had 90's it sat a notch below the middle.

Glad you posted the video, which I find encouraging that there is still the will to get "vintage" stuff operating. A couple comments if I may. The sensor in the air filter housing should be the MAT sensor which is the incoming air temperature into the engine. It is somewhat related to the MAF sensor in that it gives the ECM information on the incoming air temperature while the heated wire and temperature thermistor in the MAF try to maintain a constant temperature on the heated wire in the MAF. Between the two items, the ECM can calculate the approximate mass of the air going in. Perhaps it happened off camera, but I did not notice any time the base idle voltage was measured or adjusted on the new TPS? If not, it can be checked with the key on and engine off in diagnostics, ED01 in ECM Data. Should be .4volts, +/- .2v. There is indeed a reason the air intake tube is labeled the way it is. The interior of the tube on the end marked for the throttle has a smooth section rather than corrugations all the way to the end. This aids laminar flow into the MAF, which is important for smooth operation. One other unrelated thing; I think the upper radiator hose is the wrong one or it is installed backwards. This is meant as a clarification, not a criticism because I would like to see more of the above😎

As to the TCC, can see the command in the ECM diagnostics screen. BTW TCC will drop out if coolant temperature drops too low and leaves closed loop

It sounds like very similar experience I just had recently. The ECM had learned and memorized bad information and it does need a chance to relearn with good parts. I am guessing it cured the other code as well??

Yeah I did find that in the service manual and to the best of my knowledge I did that correctly. It should be at .38V -.42V and I adjusted it to .4V. (Someone correct me if this does not sound right).

This post might explain him leaving 2seater. He doesn't need us anymore. 🙂

I'm glad you are enjoying the forum. Thanks for posting the video. I watched it up to the point the MAF was cleaned. I enjoyed it. I will watch more later.