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The wheels are 1990 Olds Toronado rims. The center caps were made using 2" Reatta hood ornaments.

I have seen that in the manual and while it may be true, the ECM seems to have a pretty wide range of input it can handle. Many of us have changed just the sensor itself over decades of use with good results. As far as I know from a pretty reliable source, the display numbers in grams per second are actually just made up numbers. Not that they have no relationship to reality, just that they are created from indirect inputs. As mentioned, I am using a MAF with much greater flow capacity relative to the sensor input to the ECM and I have not adjusted anything in the chip except injector flow capacity and part of the timing map. Well, not totally true but everything else is unrelated, such as cooling fan cut in/out, torque converter lockup point, speedometer display pulse count divider, idle speed (thanks Padgett).

Since I've been going to all battery powered tools I decided to go with a small 6 gallon Craftsman pancake compressor that can be easily moved around. I'm trying to buy light weight items when I replace something. It fits really well in my garage without taking up much space so I guess I will get another one just like it and see if it's any quiter than the one I'm returning tomorrow. It's on sale for $199, ($80 off) and comes with three tools that I might use sometime. https://www.lowes.com/pd/CRAFTSMAN-6-Gallon-Single-Stage-Portable-Electric-Pancake-Air-Compressor-3-Tools-Included/1000595155 It fits in good with my red Craftsman toolboxes. Not to mention my red Reatta and the red Reatta hanging on the wall next to it. 🙂

Yeah my park ave ultra has a supercharged series 2 in it. My brother and I a while ago put a smaller pulley on the SC and a flashed ECU with a more aggressive tuning in it along with a few other minor things like less restrictive airbox, different thermostat etc. Haven't had it dyno'd but it really moves. That engine is stock at 240 hp and guessing it picked up another 20-30. To me that would be the perfect amount of power for a spruced up Reatta. The trick would be integration because I would want to try and preserve other things like the instrument panel etc if possible.

OK now have a good one in car and was able to re-solder one that had a loose red connector and get it beeping so have a spare. That leaves a Whole Bunch of spare parts. That said once again have to plea for a schematic of the 88-89 touchscreen and/or the actual instruction booklet for the J-34914. Would also like to know what each of the pass/fail sequences mean. Take long enough they must be doing something but right now just have to wait near a minute and if get double beep & lit screen can test the touchscream and buttons. Only thing I've found in the FSM is at page 8D-40 in the '89, chart C-2 and C-3 but mostly just says "if fails or does not beep, replace CRT". Right. Hopefully someone will: - have a CRT schematic - have a J-34914 instruction book or - know what to proper J-tool fuse size is. Pretty please with sugar.

I thought I had uploaded these before so please forgive if old news but this is what I meant by the two different MAF sensor elements: 88-90 on the left and 91 on the right. The early model will bolt right in the later housing, and it will operate, but it will leak air since it does not seal the sensor opening.

Its been done for an '88. AFAIR we took the 94 ECM maps and put them in the 88 ECM. Hard part was the Getrag 5 speed.

The MAF uses a frequency up through 10.4kHz, not a typical variable voltage, so I am not sure how it could be tuned? Granted the scale in the EEPROM can be moved around some but the ECM still only has a fixed upper frequency limit as far as I am aware. That is something I need to work on myself as I am using a 3"inline MAF from a Chevy engine I believe. It uses the same frequency range but flows ~50% more air at the same frequency so I don't run out of range in the present turbocharged iteration. Was that a typo on the different O2 sensors? That doesn't have anything to do with air flow that I am aware of.

You know, i kind of like the LN3. It's just a good solid engine. A little easier to work on than the Series 2s IMO. Kind of old school. Although the deepest I've ever been into an engine is head gaskets. That said, one of these days I am going to put a series 2 in my reatta. That will happen at some point.

I'd be putting in a tablet displaying many parameters, CRT only displays one at a time and does not log. Moates.net has everything you need.

Just a few friendly taps you understand.

"C" 3800s were used in millions of cars. I bought a long block from LKQ once, great engine but got exactly that, they broke every sensor. If have an engine out, first thing to do is to replace all freeze plugs with brass, and open out the exhaust collector.

Every time I turn around something goes bad. First my fuel pump went out, then it was the floor jack, and yesterday my air compressor motor burned up. I went to Lowes today and bought a small Craftsman compressor to replace it. First time I used it it sounds like a rod is going to fly out the side of it. Going back to Lowes tomorrow for a replacement. I'm going to have to do something to change my luck. EDIT: Forgot to mention that the last time it rained hard after hurricane Ida I found a leak in the roof while looking around in the attic. I can't stand up on my 9/12 pitch roof. I had to hire a guy to repair the ridge vent where it had pulled away from the roof. Lucky that I caught that problem before it leaked inside the house.