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I have a pair of these for changing oil.

I second this notion, and get good ones. I know I try to be frugal but I recently had a similar issue. I needed metric tube nut wrenches and purchased a three piece set at NAPA for not a lot of money, $18 if I remember correctly, but I figured a place like that wouldn't have junk. I could feel the end of the wrench expanding when I applied substantial pressure and I went back with the set to complain. The guy said, oh, we sell a lot of those but we have these wrenches too, and proceeded to swing out a door with tools hanging on the inside, out of view. I bought the one wrench I needed, eleven or twelve mm I believe, for $15, almost as much as the whole other set, but it popped the fitting apart like it was a box end wrench. For some things, there is no substitute for good quality.

Well Team, Update time ! Bought the parts, checked the local prices and scheduled a Home Visit Mechanic (yourmechanic.com) to come out to the house this past Monday. Guy showed up on time, did a nice job of changing the plugs, and wires and coil pak ( I changed the airfilter while I was waiting for him to show up - it looked original for 17 K miles) No noticeable issues with wires, but plugs were all rather "rusty and crusty" ... quite possibly originals? They were generally "tan" but the porcelain body was very dark at the connection to the threaded piece. Coil pak did have some "goo" leaking on the backside next to the ICM, wiped it off the seals, reconnected the wires to the clips and bolted everything together. Fired right up! Ran it to work yesterday (1/2 at 40 mph side streets and 1/2 at freeway) and back home (all freeway 25 miles) at 100degrees outside temp. Result: pulled like a dream up to 85 mph, cruised smooth, no "burbles, vibrations, etc" under acceleration load. Let it coast back down to 60 and repeated the accleration load test 3-4 times up to 80, never missed a beat ! Thank you to Ronnie, Ron W, Padgett, 2seater for the advice and encouragement. Going to hunt down and replace the fuel filter for good luck, and then on to the radio repair so I can have some tunes ! 🙂 Paul

That looks good Ronnie. You are indeed correct about the connections; in the red area they can be disconnected. In my defense, the red 89 had already been repaired several times before I got it and the donor can lines were just repaired without accessing the tank area on the donor car. My 90 is completely different. Should be a piece of cake on a rust free car.

Dunno, just did on my '88 before had a lift so did on large jackstands. AFAIR I just let the sway bar swing down but was a decade or so ago.

I looked at the wrench set I bought at NAPA for the flare nuts. The 3 piece set is Evercraft brand, labeled as chrome vanadium on the back side. The single wrench is a Carlyle brand and no material listed. I think both may be house brands for NAPA? No intention to start a quality debate, but just suggesting getting a quality brand, which is sometimes harder today than it used to be.

Thank you very much Padgett and Ronnie it is very much appreciated, I'll check it out tomorrow after work or maybe this weekend, so the connection is on top correct?

Are better known as "flare nut wrenches". Your Reatta brakes are probably metric. See if these have the sizes you need.

a) dye b) freon (halogen) leak detector

Should be, is only one connector at front of compressor.