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Welcome to the forum Kevindjac. Padgett provided a good photo that can be found here: Compressor Connector Differences It shows the location of the power connector for the compressor.

I second this notion, and get good ones. I know I try to be frugal but I recently had a similar issue. I needed metric tube nut wrenches and purchased a three piece set at NAPA for not a lot of money, $18 if I remember correctly, but I figured a place like that wouldn't have junk. I could feel the end of the wrench expanding when I applied substantial pressure and I went back with the set to complain. The guy said, oh, we sell a lot of those but we have these wrenches too, and proceeded to swing out a door with tools hanging on the inside, out of view. I bought the one wrench I needed, eleven or twelve mm I believe, for $15, almost as much as the whole other set, but it popped the fitting apart like it was a box end wrench. For some things, there is no substitute for good quality.

Yes, it is under warranty and the help desk was prompt and helpful when I finally got through. The warranty covers installation too if I choose to go that route but for now, they are sending a new gas valve which I will decide upon installation when it arrives. For now, I am back at my cottage where there is actual hot water🙂. I noticed my kitchen fridge started making a clicking noise this morning on top iof everything. Just a simple bottom drawer freezer type and it acts like a breaker or something trips every few seconds. Unplugged it and went out for breakfast. Two hours later, plugged it in and no clicking and compressor runs? I had left a message for the local repair place I have had good luck with over many years and he called back when headed north that there is likely a relay on the compressor or control panel on the way out. This fridge was destined for replacement at some point with a counter depth model as I rearrange my kitchen. This one was planned to go to the cottage with it's larger capacity, replacing the existing one which will become the backup beer fridge out in the workshop. The present beer fridge is at least fifty years old but keeps the important stuff ice cold.

Change of subject: Came home yesterday to find my natural gas water heater was out. This happened a few weeks ago also, but after relighting the pilot, it functioned normally for the two days I was home. I should have suspected it wasn't just a fluke. I have been spending extended time at my cottage, which is the reason for this on again, off again contact with my home. This is just a common water heater sold at many big box stores and I installed it just last year at the end of November. Water heaters last a long time in this city, 30 years and more, so this is unexpected. In this case, it refused to hold the pilot light after relighting. The wonderful internet suggested a couple of possibilities and in due course I replaced the thermocouple and inspected the internal overheat device which was not tripped. This is a sealed chamber for the firing section of heater and the entire pilot and burner assembly gets removed as a unit. The last possibility is a defective gas valve but when I called the manufacturer service line to discuss the issues, I found the service line is only available five days a week during normal business hours. Whaaat? I did contact two plumbers prior to my getting into this but neither was able to respond in my needed timeframe, hence my reason for my involvement. I guess the reason for this mini rant is how accustomed I have become to almost instant service and disappointment when not available, plus a brand I have trusted for many decades, seems to have screwed the pooch on this one. I figure if you search the internet, using no pilot light and similar search terms, when the YouTube help videos pop up showing your exact brand, I figure there is a problem. I know this isn't life threatening, or even important. Rant over

I imagine what you are asking is the location of the electrical plug for the air conditioning compressor? It is right on top just behind the clutch but I will bet Ronnie will have one of his excellent photos.

Well Team, Update time ! Bought the parts, checked the local prices and scheduled a Home Visit Mechanic (yourmechanic.com) to come out to the house this past Monday. Guy showed up on time, did a nice job of changing the plugs, and wires and coil pak ( I changed the airfilter while I was waiting for him to show up - it looked original for 17 K miles) No noticeable issues with wires, but plugs were all rather "rusty and crusty" ... quite possibly originals? They were generally "tan" but the porcelain body was very dark at the connection to the threaded piece. Coil pak did have some "goo" leaking on the backside next to the ICM, wiped it off the seals, reconnected the wires to the clips and bolted everything together. Fired right up! Ran it to work yesterday (1/2 at 40 mph side streets and 1/2 at freeway) and back home (all freeway 25 miles) at 100degrees outside temp. Result: pulled like a dream up to 85 mph, cruised smooth, no "burbles, vibrations, etc" under acceleration load. Let it coast back down to 60 and repeated the accleration load test 3-4 times up to 80, never missed a beat ! Thank you to Ronnie, Ron W, Padgett, 2seater for the advice and encouragement. Going to hunt down and replace the fuel filter for good luck, and then on to the radio repair so I can have some tunes ! 🙂 Paul

Thanks for all the help and suggestions so far. I've decided to get my friend Donnie Turpin to do it for me at his garage if he has time but I'm making plans on the best way to do it myself if he can't get to it.

Thanks Ronnie! This looks like a great resource!

I don't have an answer for you but this might be good people to ask: https://www.whiteproducts.com/metri-pack.shtml