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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/14/2021 in all areas

  1. Instructions for replacing the pressure switch are in the How-to guides if you need them.
    2 points
  2. Twere me, I'd jack it up and test all of the motor and transmission mounts. Have seen a tranny mount act like that before. Also check the torque strut on top for gone rubber. ANYTHING that has rubber that is worn & can result in metal to metal contact, even a bad sway bar mount, can cause vibration. ps I used to live in Azle and work at (then) GD.
    2 points
  3. Thanks, Ronnie, That might do it. I'll let you know.
    1 point
  4. Really nice looking '88 offered by RonH. With less than 34K miles, gotta be in a unique segment of Reatta owners. Good luck in your sale.
    1 point
  5. Suspect would require a bit of reprogramming the ECM. No big but for many, impossible. OTOH many do an L67 swap and the 4T60 is borderline. The F7 is supposed to be stronger (mythical 4T60HO ?)
    1 point
  6. It is an extra nylon or polyester "cap" ply on top of the steel belts. It prevents the tread from sling pieces if the carcass fails.
    1 point
  7. Thanks Ronnie, I might have bailed if it weren't for you and the others encouraging me. I plan on installing the replacement pressure switch this weekend, updates to follow.
    1 point
  8. Just checked an my 89 FSM showing two relays is the "final edition" dated 3/89. I do not have a "preliminary" but are often different editions.
    1 point
  9. There might be a specification for that in the FSM but I don't know where it would be. I think the throttle plate stop (screw) should be adjusted so the throttle plate is closed as much as possible without the plate sticking in the bore of the throttle body. The IAC has a passageway the routes air behind the throttle plate to supply the air needed at idle. That is what should be controlling the idle speed, not the throttle plate.
    1 point
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