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Interesting lesson: Bought my ‘91 two months ago with 56K miles and it seemed sluggish on acceleration. Gas mileage also averaged 21mpg on the highway. So I changed the O2 sensor, plugs, and cleaned the MAF sensor. Not much improvement. I occasionally had a CEL light come in momentarily, and the computer reported a stored “knock sensor” fault (I think E032 but can’t be sure). Anyway, I replaced the sensor this past weekend and the engine had noticeably more power. Filled the tank to perform a mileage check for 225 or so miles. MPG increased to about 27. So, a $38 sensor resulted in a 20% increase in fuel mileage along with better driveability. Nice!

Many were slipstreamed.

Just said on another thread but if misfiring at idle can use the override ES-10 and turn off the injectors one by one. If turning one off makes not difference in running, there you are.

I copied the picture submitted by Nailhead66, as well as the FSM diagram submitted by Ronnie, and added both to my Reatta folder for future reference. Thanks to you both.

looks pretty good with a stain.

Not having rust to deal with will be a big plus. The electrical and fuel connections are all on the front and drivers corner area of the tank. If rusty, it is easy to twist off one of the steel lines coming from the pump. Be sure to hold the fixed portion of the fitting when unscrewing the lines. The fuel filler and vent hoses may or may not be a challenge depending on which way the hose clamps are facing. Long handle screwdrivers may help. The rear sway bar does need to be swung down and it usually helps to loosen and move the exhaust heat shields aside. The rear only needs to be raised however having both ends raised gives more options for personal comfort regarding the contortions needed to access everything. I usually run the front wheels up on ramps because that end weighs a lot and then raise the rear with a jack and stands. I also do not use a creeper for much of under car work but I use short nap carpet remnants which adds clearance and it doesn't scoot out from under you. Beyond that, just the two straps hold the tank up. Ironically, I did the red car for my son/grandson last summer BEFORE I bought my lift. That includes replacing all the rear fuel and brake lines from about the center of the car to the rear, including the rear axle lines and relocating the proportioning valve🙄

I was thinking something along this line for a fuel pump. Designed for the early supercharged cars: More Information for DELPHI FE0486 (rockauto.com) May require a bit of customization.

"The idle drops 750 then drops a little lower and then dies." - that sounds like a dirty IAC. See here.

There is a 'How to" tab at the top of the page. There is a lot of information there about an easier way to replace the cam magnet.

Currently working with Jim Finn. He's taught me a great deal about the Teves master cylinder and I believe we've determined the problem to be the pressure switch. When I jump power directly to the switch nothing happens but when I do the same to the pump motor it works like a charm drawing fluid into the accumulator. Hopefully, once I get that from him and install it, there will be plenty of pressure in the system and I'll be able to bleed the air out. Then drive the car to a local gas station and fill the tank with ethanol free gas, get a set of new tires and I'll finally have it road worthy for a month or so before the weather changes and I'll put it to bed. Next spring I'll clean the injectors and it'll run like it should.