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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/01/2021 in all areas

  1. I would do the Ignition Control Module/Coil Pack.
    2 points
  2. Padgett is correct in that there are millions in a you pick yard. My testing is this; remove the servo, suck on the large hose and if it doesn't leak, it's good. Never had the electronics go bad. I have 3 Reattas [plus one gone to 2seater]with combined mileage of 950,000 miles and only swapped one out due to seals, never electronics...
    2 points
  3. Agree, with flared fittings it is locked mechanically and not a slip grip.
    2 points
  4. Thanks, Ronnie, 2 seater and Ron Walker. Yes, in spite of it's problems, I think I'll be able to make it road worthy again, it's just going to take work, a few more dollars for parts and I'll gain knowledge at the same time. I bought this car knowing it needed repairs and that the mileage was on the high side but it was the best example I could afford and I was eager to learn about it and make it mine. I love everything about the Reatta because there are so many advantages. Being 6'3", I could never fit into a Miata or MG. Besides, they're underpowered and parts are expensive and a Vette is such a cliche. I've always wanted a 2 seater, just for myself and I'm sure you'll agree the Reatta is the perfect choice. Since it's black, once I get it on the road, I'll name it Raven and my vanity plate will read NVRMORE.😏
    2 points
  5. If no codes it could be anything weak in secondary ignition (ICM, coils, plug wires, plugs. I'd switch to a Delco ignition, quality 8mm plug wires, and Delco Rapidfire (platinum) or Iridium plugs.
    1 point
  6. First check the vacuum lines. Then AFAIR (was decades ago may be a different number) there are three servos inside that can get stuck and leak. Cleaning usually fixes. BTW that is just a standard cruise control unit used on millions of GM cars.
    1 point
  7. Welcome to the forum MeanMug. I hope the S-10 swap works out for you. Take a few photos along the way when you do the swap. Maybe it will help someone else do the same.
    1 point
  8. All those buttons remind me of a console on the space shuttle. Maybe the Reatta's CRT isn't all that complicated after all. I believe it would be easier to find a button you are looking for while driving on the CRT. I took my Reatta to a little cruise-in at a shopping mall last night and the young guys were taking turns sitting in my car and looking at the CRT screens. Some of them even took pictures of it. They couldn't believe a '88 model car came with a touch screen. At first they thought the dash had been modified to add the touch screen. That is when I turned on the key and let them see how it worked.
    1 point
  9. Yes it is. Also the display modules (lower thingies) would be a single 1/4" wide board with integral backlighting now. Top connects to a circuit board that is the display section of a Reatta BCM and the front display take the place of the touchscream with a lot more complexity. Suspect what will kill the collectivity of the Allante (with the 4.5 is really a nice car to drive and mine have removable hardtops.) is the failure of the center stack. Now that I think aboudit my Arduino kit has a similar display and all the panel does is take the same IO as a Reatta and display. The Reatta has different screens, the Alante has whole different screams but the commands and the responses are the same just different displays. Hmmm whole different screams but the commands and the responses are the same. Both do the same thing. Hmmm.
    1 point
  10. BTW this system is NOT OBD, it is ALDL - same thing just GM proprietary. Under the "do not remove" cap is an ALDL connector. I have a couple of OTC 2000 scanners with Pathfinder cartridges and GM cables (check eBay). If you want to go even deeper, everything you need for ALDL is at Moates.net. You will need an ALDL >USB cable, TurerPro RT software, and a Windows tablet or laptop. To reprogram you need the C.A.T.S. tuner software with the 5B definitions. To go really deep will need ALDLStuff.zip
    1 point
  11. Agree, GM says record codes, clear codes, see what comes back.
    1 point
  12. There are two ways to clear codes. You can disconnect the battery cable for a couple of minutes and then reconnect. That will clear all ECM and BCM codes at the same time. Sometimes that is the only way to clear all the codes, like when the AC compressor gets locked out because of low Freon and you can't get the compressor to run to add Freon. You can also clear codes in diagnostics. After all codes are displayed you will be asked ECM? Press YES. Then you will be prompted to enter several areas of the diagnostics like "ECM DATA" etc. Press NO. Keep pressing NO until you see the prompt "Clear Codes" and press YES. All ECM codes will be cleared. If you happen t have to have BCM codes you will have to go through the same process for the BCM. It takes a while to get use to using the onboard diagnostics. Keep playing with the diagnostic until you get familiar with it. You can't hurt a thing. The overrides have built in safeguards that will keep you from doing something really stupid.
    1 point
  13. The only product I have used is the CRC Mass Air Flow Sensor cleaner. It did a good job and didn't cause any problems. Just be careful that you don't touch the sensor with the spray nozzle and damage it. I would use contact cleaner on the MAF electrical connector that is safe for use on plastics. Most of the contact cleaners for automotive use are.
    1 point
  14. ‘91 Reatta Convertible Bright Red with Red Interior and black top beside the ‘91 Reatta parts car
    1 point
  15. Don't think I'd have a used pressure line of any kind on my car.
    1 point
  16. I agree to a point but I see that as a last resort. The ABS & master cylinder portion of the TEVES is very durable. I've never heard of that part of those parts failing although I'm sure they do. What is problematic on the TEVES is the power assist (booster) portion that bolts on the side of the master cylinder that consists of the pump/motor, pressure switch, and accumulator. The good thing is that the power assist is a unit that just bolts on the side of the master cylinder with one bolt and can be easily swapped out. The reason Reatta owners are quick to condemn the system is due to a lack of knowledge the parts and understanding how the power assist works. The best defense against brake failures on your Reatta is to get to know the system when you don't have problems and learn recognize a problem and what needs to be done when you do have problems. With the help of other Reatta owners I have tried to provide information on how to troubleshoot and repair the TEVES system with easy to follow how-to guides and tutorials. They are for the most part a condensed version of what can be found in the factory service manual (FSM). This website is updated with new information as needed.
    1 point
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