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Jim Finn reattas60@gmail.com is a good source for used Reatta parts. He may have the hose you need.

My ‘88 is VIN 342, has black horn button & leather/suede 16 way seats.

It sounds like progress👍 From a dead start after the accumulator has been completely depleted, I find 45-60 seconds is the pump run time to completely recharge the system plus fluid level should drop 1/2” or a bit more. Pedal should feel very different from the rock hard

I'm starting the video where the Reatta review really begins. If you start the video from the beginning it has comments about the Pontiac Fiero and the Cadillac Allante too.

try www.car-part.com and key in 1990 Buick Reatta. there are a bunch of them. Too cheap for me to sell you one of mine.

Only a minor error, but Buick never offered a turbo option on the Reatta, let alone the ‘91. That aside, a nice video. Great to see Reatta getting its due.

My father was assistant chief engineer on the Reatta program. He has since passed away and left me with many photos of early design work spanning 1984 - 1986. Some photos are when they were in the United Kingdom working with Hawtal Whiting on design aspects. Not sure if anyone would have interest in these photos as a historical aspect to go with their Reatta. Unfortunately they are all Kodak prints and not in digital format. I took photos with my cell phone and uploaded a sample of the over 100 photos that I have in total.

Earlier I said 15 seconds but that was a typo. I was thinking 45 seconds but my fingers weren't. 🙂

In my experience you are good to go. Gauge error of a couple pounds is not unusual as mentioned. Fuel pressure should drop approx. one psi for every two inches Hg of manifold vacuum. It should instantly increase fuel pressure in response to blipping the throttle.

Pumping the brake 25 times should depressurize the system and return the fluid to the resovoir.

Good idea, Most serious, long term, Reatta owners try to keep parts like the pump and electronics on hand. Thanks to Daves89 I have a complete Teves master cylinder w/pump and most of the electronics that go bad.

This is basically what you need. The one shown below isn't from a Reatta so it has a different pressure switch. This is is real easy to remove at a salvage yard. Even if you get one from another brand of car all you would have to do is swap in your pressure switch and you would be ready to go.

1988-1990 Buic Riviera, Reatta: Pontiac 6000 STE, Cadillac with ABS (except Allante), Ford Thinderbird ABS, Mercury Cougar ABS SAAb ABS, Jaguar ABS, and Ferrari ABS of the same period. "The TEVES Mark II ABS System has been equipped on many different cars of the 80’s Included in the list is the Pontiac 6000 STE and 88-90 Riviera and Reatta. The system also appeared on some SAAB, Mercedes-Benz, Jaguar, Alfa-Romero, and Lincoln Continentals and Mark VIIs" http://www.sccoa.com/sccoo/Faq/ABS Diagnosis.htm Seems amazing parts are hard to find.

Where are you in WI? The pumps and associated items have been relatively plentiful in the boneyards. I reread your previous posts and there was a comment about seemingly hearing the accumulator filling up but nothing else. You should be able to hear or feel the pump running, as well as see the fluid level dropping in the reservoir, but a sort of gurgling noise can be a sign of an air lock. From dissecting the pumps and motor, the pumps are very reliable and the best way I have found to clear an air lock is to apply vacuum to the discharge port while the pump runs. The discharge is the 3/16” steel line

There were a large number of manufacturers (even f*rd and furry.) that used the Teves Mk 2, I'd be surprised if a pump is hard to find, just needs to be rated for 2500 psi.

The pump unit is separate from the master cylinder. If you could find a pump that would be the easiest way to fix it. The pump is only held on with one bolt and a few connections. I can't help you with changing to vacuum brakes.

The 2021 BCA National Meeting canceled of course. Anyone from the tri-state (or any point) going to Pittsburgh next week? Thanks, RJ

No. Reatta (and GM from 1981 to 1994) use an "Assembly Line Data Link" (ALDL) which is NOT OBD-II. Moates.net has what you need. For a hand held I like the OTC 2000 with a '93 Pathfinder cart. There is other stuff if you want to reprogram ( see http://www.tunercat.com ) but for all scanner operations the indash scanner in both Reattas and Allantes is just as good and can clear codes.

Probably not a definitive answer, but I have a Auto X-ray 35000 from circa 2005 that does both. It has several adapter cables as the connection is different. It does have some difficulty connecting to my 90 via the ALDL as it must shut off some of the dash to avoid interference but it does work. It cannot read anything the onboard diagnostics can’t but it does have a very limited recording capability so you can do a little review after an event. Slow, maybe one frame per second, but it is a tiny advantage. The one big issue with the slow frame rate is the data in each frame are not synched very well

Gentlemen, start your engines! Quoting Scotty Kilmer Guys (especially Ronnie,) after weeks of agony, imagining I had destroyed the electronics and dreading tearing out the BCM or more, sending it all in for repair and dealing the whole process, including the cost, after checking the fusible links and finding nothing, I decided to start again at the beginning by retesting the fuses next to the console and low and behold....... I found I had missed a very important fuse, the CPS (central power supply!) Seeing it was blown, I inserted a replacement fuse and heard a series of clicks followed by the interior lights coming on. Got my keys and, praying the the car gods, turned the key in the ignition and bam, the main display lit up and soon after the CRT! You can't imagine my response, had to play Beethoven's Ode to Joy to celebrate! So, many thanks once again for all your support and suggestions gentlemen. Now I can see by the car's self diagnosis that I have an electrical problem in engine control causing the rough running, my next challenge.

I am so glad that these photos have received so many views and many positive comments. My father was a true "car guy", loved cars and enjoyed working working on them and sharing everything he knew about cars. Even though he passed away, he lives on forever every time when I see a Reatta driving down the street. The uniqueness of the Reatta has made it a true classic collector's car.

Thank you guys for your input. I've decided there won't be a ROJ Facebook group. I don't think it would accomplish what I thought it might accomplish. My goal for a ROJ Facebook group would not be to attract more traffic to ROJ or take members away from other Facebook groups. The goal would have been to let more people on Facebook know about the How-to guides and other information that can be found here on ROJ. Although ROJ may not be as popular as Facebook, I take pride in knowing it has helped a lot of Reatta owners over the years.

I think they are awesome! I didn't even know about them for a long time, even though I've always liked buicks in general. I came across one in like museum shape on ebay and thought "I need one of those!" Found one on facebook marketplace that needed some work for much much less. That's more my style lol. All of my vehicles are "rescue cars". I guess I don't mind doing the mundane repairs that most people either don't want to deal with or don't want to pay someone to deal with. Plus I kind of find fulfillment in taking older cars that someone doesn't want and fixing it up into a useful (and maybe even enjoyable) vehicle again.

Cberry1962 was kind enough to send me all his father's photos. the must be about a hundred of them. Cberry1962 has already post the ones that most people would be interested in. Most of the ones that haven't already been posted are of views of pieces of the car as they were being developed. I intend to post some more of the photos when I get time to scan them into my computer so they can be posted here.

Just noticed this post. The photos are great and thankfully preserved pretty well for cell phone shots of old Kodak print. (I printed the two showing the "inards" of the door - may allay some fear of replacing that exterior door handle.) Pride goes both ways - Cberry1962 can be proud of his father for his part in engineering this fabulous vehicle, and, I'm sure Cberry1962's father is proud of him for sharing these photos with a bunch of people that like to see the Reatta carry on.

Welcome to the forum!!! Thank you for posting the photos. I would love to have any photos that you might have. You can email me . I can scan the photos and post them here to share with members of the forum.

Thank you Ronnie - I finally went out and pumped my brake pedal 25 times then turned the ignition ON and started the engine and the anti lock amber light stayed ON. I checked the brake fluid level and it was about 1/2" low, added fluid level to the max level mark. With the ignition OFF I pumped 25 times then turned the ignition ON and started the engine and again the anti lock amber lamp stayed ON. I checked the reservoir and it is now 1/2" down from the max level mark. I pumped 25 times then started the engine and the anti lock amber lamp went OUT and stayed OFF. SUCCESS !!! What all this resulted from is my '89 is a garage queen and over the previous 2 years has had very few miles and the accumulator nitrogen pressure had slowly forced the brake fluid back to the reservoir plus the fluid level down kept the anti lock amber lamp ON. Once again thank you Ronnie Woody 89 MAUI