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Here is a link to the speed bleeders I used on the Reatta. They fit both front and rear calipers but really not needed on the rear calipers since the brake pump motor is doing all the work. But compared to using my hand vacuum pump to bleed the front calipers I think it made the job a lot easier and I think I got some more air out of the line. The brake pedal seems less squishy and feels normal now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5G2SM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Since I usually have no helpers to pump the pedal I feel they are well worth the expense.

Sometimes when people are trying to sell their Reatta they post photos of it while it's wet to make the paint look shinier. I can't tell much difference in my Reatta between wet and dry in the photos I took this morning after washing and drying it. I think mine looks shinier dry. Completely wet after washing Completely Dry Back in the garage asleep 🙂

It is relatively simple to change except for location. The wiring connector is a squeeze type where you need to pinch the sides inward to release. It just unscrews from the block and is 1/4” npt. Do not overtighten when installing or it may compromise the sensor sensitivity. Have you checked knock sensor activity in diagnostics? Immediately after starting go to diagnostics ED17, and watch the knock counts during the time this sometimes occurs. There should be no activity while running at idle or low load. If the number is stable, rap sharply on an engine bracket, like the lifting eye on the right rear, and see if the knock counts increase as it should.

East Coast Reatta Parts said they have some, but don’t recall the date of the video on YouTube

Amazon has an adapter cable from OBD 1 to 2, but not sure how it works. Thus, my start of this thread.

Yah, it is just a drip, drip, drip of issues😖 It sounds like everything is repairable and is mainly the fuel and brake systems. The individual parts are reasonably priced but enmass it can be daunting. Fuel tanks are available for reasonable money if needed, and you can likely get a complete plastic fuel line set from a 90 from one of our vendors as well as the brake unit. Calipers are readily available so the only item to fabricate is the rear brake line?

a: Dot 5 will do that. If did not have spares might be tempted to dump the Teves and go to a Riviera PB system. b: or start with a nice car...

Thanks, Phil. I checked rock auto out and while their prices are quite reasonable, you have to factor in shipping both to you and your core to them. I found Advance Auto has several grades from $88.00 with a ten dollar core (0nly 1 yr warranty) to around $150.00 with a $25.00 core but lifetime warranty.