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My 1990 usually sits at the halfway mark going down the road. I do notice that if you let the car idle for more than five minutes it will creep up to around 3/4 toward the hot mark. It has never overheated, not even in 100+ degree weather.

I run a 185 and also have that harness that Mc_Reatta made for me to run both fans all the time, so I have that going for me which is nice.

I agree with a cool running engine ( I have a 170* thermostat) but a stock cooling system in good condition is capable of keeping the engine cool enough to prevent damage to the engine.

You realize the "factory setting" turns the HI fan on at 217F ? For me anything over 200F is just Too Hot.

As the capacitors degrade the shaking will get worse particularly after sitting for a while. See "reform capacitors". "The process of reforming an old aluminum electrolytic capacitor consists of the application of rated voltage, through a resistor, for a period equal to five minutes plus one minute per month of storage."

Have never had any problems with two '91' Reattas and two '92 Rivieras keeping with factory settings.

No I think I misunderstood you earlier. I haven’t tried it on a cold run with the engine off now that I think about it. I will try that in the morning. It seems to shake a little bit when you first crank the car up and about five minutes after the shaking stops. I think it has to be the capacitors. This is an original unit, untouched Not rebuilt so it’s very likely just some old parts that take a while to warm up. The alternator is brand new on the car.

My '11 Caddy touchscrean sometines does the same thing for a few moments on a cold start. No it is not a Cue.

I tend to think it is the capacitors actually. It seems to do it after the car has been sitting overnight or on a cold start. The shaking stops once the car has been running for a while.

Yeah I agree. I just with they had used the supercharged version in the Reatta to give it a little more power and a little stronger transmission to go with it. The transmissions are a little weak to stand much more power..

I think the reason they didn't do anything special with the engine was because they were pouring money into the production of the car and the Cadillac design team was sucking up all the resources for the Allante. So Buick had to compromise with the Reatta. They got their design for the most part but the engine/trans was something they could just pull in from their other Buick models so it didn't cost extra to throw it in. It was a cost saving thing. If you think about it, it might be the single best reason that there are still Reattas on the road today other than being unusual and rare. The 3800 engine is one of the most reliable and long lasting engines of all time. Love the yellow Reatta. I wish that had been a standard color.

I can echo those sentiments. My Reatta remains plugged in to "life support" as my wife calls the battery maintainer. With some of the nice weather being a "hit or miss" I try to enjoy my convertible SSR, and even that usage is less than I would like.

Sounds like I'm doing the legwork for your mechanic that apparently knows nothing about a Reatta.

I use this type on my weather stripping around doors, windows, trunk lid, etc. As above, spray on a cloth rag and apply liberally.

I just use silicone spray on a rag and apply it that way. One of the few benefits of being from the north of the country is the lower level of sun damage, although it still occurs, it is a shorter season overall as well as the angle of the sun.

1990 Reatta Features - Dealer VHS I like this video because it describes the differences between earily model Reattas and the latter models.

Interesting and also frustrating day today. Had to drive into town to replenish a little food and pick up some other supplies so didn’t get going until after noon. Shortly after getting back, #2 son and teenage granddaughter came by for the purpose of removing the dash from the donor car. The two of them worked all afternoon to get the entire assembly out by going back and forth to Dave’s instructions following the described order of operation. Minor issues but the tools and locations are spot on and my son was very complimentary of the accuracy and clarity of instructions. I was impressed myself but it was for the gumption to tackle that job. It is worth it as the dash is in great shape. A side benefit is the easy access to the boxes and wiring to maybe repair the dash failure of #1 sons black car? The fuel tank story was less positive. If the fuel hoses were attached to the tank before installation I would have noticed the main pressure line from the tank was seized to the nut that couples to the hose running forward. Working with no space, what felt like the two mating pieces threading together, was actually the fitting end from the tank twisting off. The tank had to come all the way out so the steel pipe could be cut cleanly and it is getting pressure hose connected directly to the bobbed off steel line. The best repair would be to replace the entire in tank assembly but it simply isn’t going to be. I am sure this solution is secure but not perfect? End is story for today. This is the donor dash on sawhorses for cleanup. My car in left background, donor in right background and rear corner of subject car extreme right. The other thing is of different manufacture?