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I realized I failed to include photos of some basic items, referred to in the previous posts in this thread. The rear exhaust manifold restriction is well known, and removing it costs a certain amount of labor and it depends how innovative you are doing it in place or on the bench, which is what I would recommend. Bear in mind the exhaust is a 400 series stainless steel that does rust and is magnetic, but it is tough and not the easiest to grind out. I found I could use a good quality hole saw, 2 1/16" I think, and use the outlet as the guide and cut everything away, including the excess threaded boss for the O2 sensor inside the pipe. It seals on the outside just like a spark plug. Actually it is the same size and thread as an old style 18mm spark plug. If you do it with the hole saw, use lots of lubricant. I have noted a slight deepening of the exhaust tone with no other changes, your results may vary. The first photo is from 1998 These are the aftermarket replacement cams with the 1988 lift and duration. They are an exact replacement however, the flange at the front that bears against the block is thicker and the spacer washer used on the later cams should not be reinstalled or chain drive misalignment will occur. This is also the hand plot I did of the 1988 and later model LN3 cam which I have posted several times in the past but I am including it again here. The taller and wider lobes are the 1988. Lastly, I found a critic lurking in the background but is unmasked here.

Thanks Ronnie, I've never seen so many silver boxes with so much wiring under a dashboard.

I'm assuming your convertible is like my '88 coupe. Remove the glovebox. The BCM will be the silver box with all the wires going to it.

I really like white Reattas!

I agree with that. Before deciding to run the converter unlocked for extend periods, I went to a local transmission shop that has been in business for years and asked the owner his opinion on running the converter unlocked. He was in agreement with you about more heat being generated due to the converter slipping. He recommended a transmission cooler to help dissipate the extra heat. I installed a rather large cooler you that see below to make sure heat wouldn't be a problem. I also asked him if driving with the converter unlocked would do damage to the converter by not going through the normal lockup cycle. He said he saw no reason why it would so I feel pretty safe in running the transmission with the converter unlocked.

I guess that might be a reason the switch for the TCC might not matter as much to you as it would to me. My area is much different. It is relatively flat here in the TN Valley where I live but in just a short drive things can change a lot. For example, the Cherohala Skyway (below) and other places in the hills and mountains of East TN are much different. A converter kicking in and out as you get on the brakes and than back on the gas can be irritating and distract from the fun of driving up and down hills and around curves. I think I would really like the extra power you have when I'm driving in the mountains. I believe it would really improve the fun factor. ?