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2seater - thanks for taking the time to put all of that information together and the screenshot above! Ronnie, thanks again for the comments and additional insight. I will take this information and continue to troubleshoot. Will let you know if anything develops.

When the stock cables are in place, they cross each other at the battery. I agree with Ronnie the black one that is intact is the ground, which is normally the terminal toward the firewall if it has the stock battery style. I don’t have a car at home but pretty sure three different sized wires to the hot + terminal, one to the starter, one to the alternator output and one to the red terminal box on the fender panel. That poor looking connection to the battery isn’t doing you any favors and one or more connection may be intermittent? I know the factory cable is hard to come by but at this point may be better off with crimped and soldered individual connectors on the hot cables and stack them on a stud installed in the battery plus terminal. Temporary fix.

I looked for a bit more information on the DFCO and I found the FSM doesn't really give much detail, other than it is decided by the ECM.? I knew I had seen references to it in the programming of the PROM but most chip burners mention leaving many of those little detail items alone as it has little to do with what we are interested in when adjusting for performance or to accommodate changes. The screen shot below is taken from the stock chip programming in my TunerProRT program. As can be seen, there are eight different items that may be adjusted, so it isn't just a simple coast down vs time or throttle setting that occurs but has settings for rpm, speed of deceleration, tps percentage, temperature etc.. as can be seen. I hope this helps a bit. Even though my car is presently operating with a chip I burned, I haven't a clue what I would have done to modify or improve this item? By the way, LV8 is load value which is a manufactured number calculated from several sensor inputs which I am not 100% sure of. It is the X axis of the spark timing table in the chip, so it is important but it isn't a sensor value. Those load values below are pretty low as the maximum is 255.

Buick Graphic Control Center In-Depth Look This is a great video that describes most of the functions of the CRT. The same guy also did a shorter video about the Reatta CRT where he tells about some other functions of the CRT. I posted it earlier in this thread. Thanks to 2seater for finding this video.

Thank you for all you do. I know this is a hard time to be a nurse. I'm happy to be able to help you.

Having no luck at all! Bought a brand new battery, tried to hook it up and got fireworks, hissing and whisps of smoke from the alternator, hope I haven't fried things! Now, I believe the terminal with three cables is positive and the other with two is negative but since there's no indication, I'm not not sure anymore. Guess I should have taken a picture before I took the old battery out but usually positive is red but both are black. Also one cable came loose but I think it's from the one with just two wires. Please advise. BTW, I just ordered a copy of the factory manual.