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Welcome to the forum! Instructions here for removing the knob and shifter panel. Shifter Indicator Panel Removal More instructions here that you might find useful. Body - Center Console And instructions here for fixing the crackling in the radio. Radio Capacitor Replacement Instructions

That isn't paint that is missing. That is tape applied at the factory. Instructions for putting on new tape are in the how-to guides here on ROJ. I just removed the tape and polished the metal so it looks a lot like chrome. I lot of people do that unless they are trying to keep everything stock.

Ronnie, you're a gem! On my shifter, the horizontal plate is painted black and some of the paint had chipped off. I'd like to get it off and strip it, replace the original brush finish and reinstall it eventually if I don't have to tear the entire console apart. Once again, thanks so much for your help!

The knob has a metal staple on the front side and just needs to be pried about 2/3 of the way out to release the knob. At the risk of being a little off, I should defer to people more intimately knowledgeable about stripping the inside. I do believe there are two screws at the front but don't remember if they are covered by the trim piece up on the dash or the black insert inside the chrome escutcheon ?

A lot of good tips here. Yesterday I spent a lot of time fixing cracking in the radio. The owners manual suggested wires. Anyway after not wanting to burn a bunch of gas I worked on it without the motor running & ran the battery down. It cranked fine & would start, but wound not keep running. Checked voltage on the Guage screen. It was 11.4V. No faults! I have a very nice battery charger. Put it on. It tests the battery when you put it on. It said battery full. It showed 12.4V. Now for something I don't like about this charger. It thinks the battery is charged so it doesn't put out a charge! It does have a start engine mode. I hit that the car started right up & ran smoothly. Voltage showed 13.5V. So from this. Voltage is too low to run the ecu properly or feed the coils so not enough spark.. Or the fuel pump is not getting enough V to supply the Injectors enough fuel pressure. I suspect this mostly. With the low Voltage the motor starting because the fuel pump runs after the motor stalls & has time to fill the system up to the proper psi.. Now the motor can start but not spinning fast enough for the alternator to put out enough Voltage/Amps the motor sputters then stalls. My charger has a alternator test mode too. It tested fine once the motor was running after being started with the box in start motor mode. This mode give 13 volts for 90 seconds. Enough time for the motors alternator to come up to seed to do it's job. Now this might not be your problem but call up your Guage screen as soon as you can and look at voltage. I had no faults coming up. I just know Fuel Injection Systems don't work when voltage falls below a certain amount. A .1 of a volt too low is too low. I bought our Reatta last fall. 147,000 miles. But it had not been driven much in the last three years before we bought it. The battery is two years old. But with the car sitting there is always a low drain on the battery. Such as radio memory. This kind of drain will ruin a battery. It will take a charge but the true cranking Amps will drop-down. I have a battery tender. It never shows the battery fully charged when I first put it on the battery and takes more than ten hours to show fully charged. I will be replacing this battery very soon. You said your car has sat a long time also. Sorry this got a little long.. Good luck..