Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/13/2021 in all areas
-
I was during the reatta era. Drove several of as company cars. I have owned two convertibles. I'm looking for another2 points
-
Overall a good video. I know it wasn’t a detailed engineering video but I was a bit surprised he didn’t mention the major change with the advent of the Series II, the deck height was reduced one inch. This makes the Series II physically smaller and lighter. There were other changes to be sure, which taken together make almost everything on a Series II incompatible with previous generations. Maybe picking a nit but it was an important change.2 points
-
Cberry1962 was kind enough to send me all his father's photos. the must be about a hundred of them. Cberry1962 has already post the ones that most people would be interested in. Most of the ones that haven't already been posted are of views of pieces of the car as they were being developed. I intend to post some more of the photos when I get time to scan them into my computer so they can be posted here.2 points
-
He must have been getting confused with the series 2 3800. I think it was like 210 naturally asperated, and 240 supercharged. I think about 270hp would be right about perfect for a reatta. Although, to be honest, I don't dislike how it drives with the stock engine. It's not a power house by any means, but decent low end torque and how fast can you go safely/legally on public roads anyway?2 points
-
My father was assistant chief engineer on the Reatta program. He has since passed away and left me with many photos of early design work spanning 1984 - 1986. Some photos are when they were in the United Kingdom working with Hawtal Whiting on design aspects. Not sure if anyone would have interest in these photos as a historical aspect to go with their Reatta. Unfortunately they are all Kodak prints and not in digital format. I took photos with my cell phone and uploaded a sample of the over 100 photos that I have in total.
1 point -
Yes, the pistons are a puzzle. The tops are relatively clean and my estimation is there isn’t a lot of time on the engine after repair. On the other hand, the sides and near the rings look like baked on buildup. Run hot or the tuning way off. I don’t know but it has come to the end of the line for now. I need to work up a pair of heads for the other block destined to get the supercharger so these will get some disassembly and evaluation1 point
-
Just a couple tips on the cam sensor magnet. I found it helpful to get the coolant overflow tank out of the way as well as the water pump pulley to give a little more room to work. I didn't disconnect the tank, just took off the black bar that goes across over the battery and then the two fasteners that hold the tank in. Then you can kind of just move it out of the way. I cleaned the remaining plastic pieces of the magnet carrier out with a combination of a short screwdriver and some needle nose pliers. I tried to extract what I could, but you are bound to drop some down into the oil pan. I'm not worried about it. The strainer on the oil pickup will catch them. I used acetone and cotton swabs to get the surface nice and clean for good adhesion with the jb weld and I used a file to file down the flange on the magnet. Also I used a magnetic pickup tool similar to the one in the instruction to put the magnet in. That worked great.1 point
-
It was this one on Amazon.
1 point
-
Typical speed for an ignition misfire to show up is as the car goes to high gear and torque converter locks up, which is around 50 mph at minimum throttle. Light cruise and perhaps a slight incline will show an imperfect ignition. I doubt the timing chain and sprockets need replacement. The only time that would make sense is if opening it up to replace the magnet. Most metallic parts are pretty impervious to storage as long as protected from corrosion.1 point
-
Welcome to the forum. Yes, I believe most forum members who come here often know this. There are instruction on how to do it in the menu at the top of the page. Charts to interpret the codes can e found in the menu also.1 point
-
My Reatta has been sitting in the garage under the cover since I washed it on Dec. 11. I removed the cover today thinking maybe I needed to charge the battery after it sitting for two months. Nope. Before starting the car I checked the battery and it read 12.4 volts. After closing the knife switch I turned the key on and off three times to let the fuel pump run and prime the fuel system. When I turned the key to the start position the engine fired right up like it had been started yesterday. The battery disconnect switch is a good investment for Reattas that are going to be sitting for long periods of time without being started.1 point
-
This post is a lot more interesting then two [long time posting] guys "over there" asking where a relay is for the fuel pump and headlights1 point
