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That's true. One other mod I did was swapping out the rear calipers for 1996 Cadillac Eldorado. It was an easy swap but the next guy [I'm pretty sure there won't be] will have no other idea what I did, however I did indicate that in the owners manual. I also swapped out the steering wheel but that is a visual swap and changed nothing inside the column. The 'vert also has a different steering wheel with wiring changes [air bag, and security] as well as a different GM radio/stereo but uses same Reatta connectors.

Okay I just wanted to know for safety. Don't use the headlights too much until you get that harness installed. Even if those are 55 watts each that is a lot for the car's wiring and switch.

Regarding that cup holder, just mount it to the passenger side of the console. That's where I have two of them mounted. I have a "Kicker" powered sub woofer in my Reattas. I bought extra harnesses for each of the 3 Reattas I own so I can swap from one car to another in no time. I had to buy another Kicker as the 'vert is going to Texas and I need one for that car and then one for the Wisconsin cars. I bought one Kicker unit from E bay for $100.00 and another one of Dallas Craigslist when I was coming through from Brownsville for $60.00. The Kicker pwered sub woofer has it's own box with quick connect plugs and slides into the trunk against the pass through door. I just use a board to wedge it to keep it in place.

Whoa. If those are actually 110 watts each, you are definitely going to need a headlight wiring harness like Dave suggested that have relays to take the load off the headlight switch. That much wattage could fry it and the marginal headlight wiring of the Reatta will degrade the output of those LED headlights defeating the purpose of installing them. Maybe that 110 watt rating is for both headlights?

Busy, busy and impressed? I wondered about painting the wheels too but was thinking of doing a plasticoat job that could be peeled off. I have aftermarket but maybe for the kids Reattas? I was considering adding a sub now that I have a working radio again but didn’t want to lose trunk space. The under seat type would have to be pretty small to miss the motors underneath but the spare tire install looks interesting. Could you share what model sub that is?

Can you tell us which LEDs you bought?

Fifty bucks is a little high. See if you can find the one Dave found on Amazon.

That's the best I've seen on a headlight harness. Good find! The price on the harness we use to buy has went out of sight.

On Amazon I am looking at "All Star Truck Parts". Ceramic H4 headlight harness kit. Sells for $18.95. Going on my Christmas list.

Dave's recommendation of adding a headlight harness is a good solution to the headlight doors problem to but it requires spending money. ?

That is what Padgett said over "there" and I didn't argue the point. I did try it on the Red at all speeds before closed loop and the cruise comes on at least 20 miles an hour and works when the engine still shows cold on the CRT.

You have been really busy working on your new Reatta and you got a lot accomplished. The headlight doors not closing is common problem when you add LED headlights. You can cut and ground a wired on the headlight door module but I don't know off the top of my head which wire it is. I will try to find the information you need and report back latter today. I'm a little too busy right now to look it up.

With LED lights you need a relay harness. That will make the lights retract when you turn them off. Regarding the black paint on the wheels and trim, I have always thought that the car needed more chrome. However black against the Red is a good contrast and seem more favorable with young people. When I was your age more chrome was popular, so just a sign of the times.

Welcome to the Forum! Looks like you have picked up a really nice Reatta.

Nicely done?

I'd say you did well. Looks like a great car.