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Could check the vacuum lines to the transmission shift module or the module itself, since it is shifting rough.

If fuel pressure checks out, the only thing left in the fueling is the injectors themselves. The simple thing is just to listen to them with a stethoscope, wooden dowel, wood handled screwdriver, etc to see if one or more is dead. Further tests would be to go into overrides and turn each injector on and off to see what effect it has on idle quality. May need to unplug the IAC to keep it from compensating for the power drops during the test. I suspect it is an ignition problem. Is it possible varmints have nested in the wiring or maybe chewed on it or possibly vacuum lines? Spark plug cables, coil pack and module condition? Plug wires routed correctly, especially the rear ones. I have caught myself reversing a couple of them and it pays to triple check.

The spark plugs were a very healthy chocolate brown, with no black or deformed plugs, neither dry or wet. I tested the fuel pressure, and it kicks up the correct psi on turn key but i haven't done any other stress tests on it since i just replaced it a year ago. Ill give it a try! Thanks!

Welcome to the forum! What did the spark plugs look like when you changed them. Any of them look like they were wet with gas or any of them abnormally dry looking? You should do the complete fuel pump testing as described in the How-to guides here on ROJ to be sure the fuel pump is working properly under stress.

Back story tells me it is either a failing Ignition Control Module or crank sensor. Not directed at you, but I wish everyone would go out and buy and extra coil pack/ICM, try it and put it on the shelf. Then when something like this happens one can try the back stock ICM/Coil Pack and isolate the issue to the crank sensor. The problem you now have is that you are buying used ICM/Coil Packs and are unsure if they are any good which complicates your testing.

So I thought for kicks and giggles I'd add my escapades with my Reatta. I try to not drive my white coupe too much because it has less than 60,000 miles on it. However, I gladly drive my red convertible everywhere during the summer. I live very close to Lake Erie, so at least once a week I put the top down and drive westward along the lake to watch the sun set. It's an extremely beautiful drive, until the midges spawn haha.

I thought I would post some pics of a real easy job of replacing front sway rod bushings. As you can see below, the bushings on my 89 Reatta were totally shot......cracked, smushed, and falling apart: Here is what came in a kit (AC Delco brand): Price was less than $10 from Rock, and enough to do both sides. And here is the dead carcass/remains of the old bushings (probably original from 1989): One side was seized in place, and had a slight bend in the bolt and took a good amount of pounding to get out. When putting the new bolts/bushings in place, I found that I needed to jack up the sway bar a couple inches to allow all the bushings to fit in place, and then removed the jack when threading on the top nut. Also, had to start the nut without the top washer in order to squeeze it all together some, then remove the nut and add the washer and put the nut back in place. New Bushings installed: Its a pretty simple job, and you can save a few bucks doing it yourself. Footnote: The car had just passed inspection with those shot bushings......I guess they dont catch everything.