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I would assume the CPS is bad if it didn't test the same way mine did. But I've never tested a bad one so I couldn't say for sure.

BTW, Welcome to the forum Luftweg!

Most multimeters, digital or analog, can't react fast enough to the almost instantaneous rise and fall of the 18x signal. Nor can a 12 volt light bulb in a standard test light. That is the reason I used a LED to do the test in the tutorial. A LED can react almost instantly. You might be able to set your meter on millivolts and see a blip but I couldn't with my meters. I have an analog meter with a needle, a cheap digital and a really good digital meter and none of them would detect the 18x signal. When I did the test on my car it was starting and running fine so I know the signal was there. I just couldn't see it with my meter. Believe me... I like to do things the easiest way possible. If I could have done the tests reliably with a multimeter I wouldn't have recommended making a LED tester just to do the tests on the crank sensor. I don't think I would dive in and replace the crank sensor based on the readings with a meter until I was certain it was giving me an accurate reading of the 18x signal. I recommend spending a few minutes and a couple of bucks to make the LED tester.

I would agree the test light is simpler and perhaps easier than the voltmeter plus it is a simple on-off test that doesn’t require the nuance of the meter. I am guessing what you are calling a CPS shield is the bracket for the little damper shock on the engine? Early 88’s didn’t have that damper but was added as a running change so GM must have felt it was an improvement. Maybe removed to change the serpentine belt? I think we have identified up to three different harmonic damper bolt configurations used over the years but not a definite progression on their use and appear to be interchangeable. Different head sizes and shaft configuration, some have a reduced diameter section and others are full size over their length?