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Great strategies from an obvious Reatta expert. Thank you!

I go to Rock Auto and look for close outs and then buy them to stock up my parts bin. Things like air/oil filters, wiper blades, spark plugs/wires, O2 sensors, water pumps, tie rods, hub assemblies, serpentine belts, cam sensors/magnets, etc. stuff I would always need. Then if there is something I'm low on or a surprise repair, I go to Advance and "window shop" putting something in the cart. Then I wait for an e mail from them offering 25% on my cart item. Then if I have a coupon for $5.00 I use that as well. If I'm under $25.00 I add a couple of low cost items to get there and the price is pretty close to Rock. I also use E bay and Amazon to compare pricing. We are Prime members so I get stuff fast and free from Amazon. Then of course I sell a few parts from Gibson's my local You Pick yard to offset my parts purchases...

Hey 89 Red......I used to buy alot of parts from Advance Auto and other local suppliers until someone mentioned Rock Auto.....and now I always at least go there and check their prices. It seems that usually they are far lower, and that includes the shipping costs. For example, your $39 fan is on sale at Rock for between 12 -15 bucks.....so, you may want to give them a try sometime. Here is a copy of their page showing the fans: Glad to see you got the fan/o-ring issues taken care of.

Bleeding the brakes: After suctioning the fluid out of the master reservoir, I turned on the key and let the pump prime back up, which took about 30 seconds. I then used Ronnie's modified trick of using a wooden stick with a flat end, in a "T" shape to put between the seat bottom and the brake pedal to keep pressure on the brake. With the key on, it was a breeze to bleed the back brakes......no pumping of the brake pedal up/down, but just letting the pump push the new fluid to the back calipers. Took a good amount before clear fluid started coming out, and just had to keep refilling the master reservoir numerous times to prevent any air getting into the system. Here is the front caliper: I tried leaving the key on and hoped that the motor would push fluid out like it did on the rear brakes. But I only got one push of fluid into the clear tube and then the flow stopped. So, this does require a second person to be the foot-stomper on the brake pedal. It seemed to work both ways.....with the key on and pump allowed to cycle, or with the pump off, and just using 100% foot pedal-pumps. Went to the last one (drivers side), and even after soaking the bleeder several days with PB Blast, it did not want to come loose. I even used a torch to heat up the caliper around it, but it still would not come loose......and it may be on the verge of stripping/busting in half. So, looks like a new caliper will be needed on this one. But good to learn how to bleed these Teves Anti Loc Brakes, and to have fresh fluid in most of the lines/calipers. Got to do other general repairs while the car is still up on jackstands, but will post if this solved the ABS warning light issue in the near future.