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As always, when the box from Jim Finn comes to the house, it's like XMas!! Thanks Jim!!!!!

That sounds good, especially with a larger accumulator. Not wanting to give false information but this is from memory: the lights should pretty much go out at the same time as they are pretty much opposite sides of the same switch and I think this is in the 1400#-1500# pressure range. In use the pump restarts at 2000psi and cuts off at 2650psi. From the data I have gathered from testing 8-10 switches, they are very consistent pressure wise if they haven't failed due to a leak. The point of this is the pump run time between cut in and stop gives an indication of how much fluid is contained in the working pressure range, longer theoretically being better. Many variables involved here such as pump condition, voltage delivery to the pump and of course capacity of accumulator to give a suggested figure but can be another item to compare over time.

Ronnie.....Yea, it was worth the effort (about 7 minutes per syringe full of old fluid). Good to know I got the entire upper bowl empty, with just that skinny lower part remaining. It was a good discovery finding that hole about the size of the WD40 tube located on the outer edge of that round float thing.....once the tube went thru the hole, it was all the way to the bottom of the upper reservoir. Will have to make me one of those hair-bigger black tubes before my next plunge into these murky waters.

Got the brake fluid suctioned out: I did as Ronnie suggested and rigged up a WD40 spray tube to the end of an adapter that is pushed into a rubber tube. However, I just used a syringe to suck the fluid out of the reservoir instead of a vacuum pump. The connections were not air tight so I had to wrap it real tight with electrical tape, and then it held the vauum real well. However, that WD40 red tube is super small, and the flow rate is super slow going up into the syringe. It took me about 7-8 minutes to draw one full syringe, but I got 6 full syringes out of the reservoir AFTER I first suctioned it out with only the larger black hose. I discovered that if you poke around the outside edge of the "float", there are a couple of small holes that will allow the red WD40 tube to slide all the way down to the bottom of the main reservoir (but not down the narrow deep portion). I could get the tube deeper this way as opposed to inserting it throught that rectangular opening in the back. The container with no lid (Kozyshack Rice Puddin) on it was the extra fluid that I got out using that small WD40 tube. The fluid in the container with the top (Steakhouse Chili) was what came out using the larger black hose. So, it was a bit time consuming, but I think worth getting that extra dark brake fluid out. (I looked at the return hose going between the pump and the bottom of the reservoir, but did not want to risk breaking that plastic nipple trying to get the hose loose, plus it seemed way to hard to get to. Bleeding all the lines to all the wheels should help purge most of the old stuff out). After suctioning out the first container of fluid, I then pumped the brake pedal about 25 times, and did notice about a 3/4 " rise in the level of the fluid in the reservoir......so, definately good to get that old stuff out of the "Black Ball" (Accumulator) while suctioning the old fluid out. Hope to bleed the brakes tomorrow. Thanks for all the tips/advice from everyone.

Your direction on the tutorials was fine. I misjudged the spring tension based upon the received part which had apparently been disassembled with tension relieved. I appreciate the tips in the post and no harm has befallen me. I was clear of the dangerous bits when I pulled the motor away from the regulator. The stops need some adjustment at a later date, but the window is now working properly whereas it was moving a few inches then stopping with a grinding noise. All is well and thanks for your information and concern.