Saving Reattas from the crusher is a family project.

[2seater]

It has been a while but grandson brought the red car by the cottage today after school, and before work? I had been keeping the lift open before the winter cottage shutdown to replace the front anti roll bar end links as well as the power steering hose. Time only allowed the end links to be replaced but at least that went smoothly. The seeping hose will have to wait for now. 
 

The black car vs deer encounter was posted earlier this week. Up in the air on how to repair. Maybe considering a Riviera front end conversion if a black 7th generation is available reasonably?

[DAVES89]

A Rivatta? I remember a guy in Texas had one years ago. Might be interesting to see one in "real life".

[2seater]

Just got word the red car has failed to start, but this time it cranks over, and just has no spark. Wednesday we will be getting together to change the crank sensor, which I should have done when the front of the engine was apart? In the mean time I need to retrieve my spare ICM and coil pack from #1 son, the other likely culprit.

[Ronnie]

1 hour ago, 2seater said:

Just got word the red car has failed to start,

When it rains it pours. Hate to hear you are having more problems.

[DAVES89]

I have extra crank sensors, coil pack and ignition modules if you need one.

[2seater]

10 hours ago, Ronnie said:

When it rains it pours. Hate to hear you are having more problems.

In this case, it is snowing? Will see if this is self inflicted or could have been prevented?

[2seater]

10 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

I have extra crank sensors, coil pack and ignition modules if you need one.

Thanks Dave. I have the stuff, it just has become a bit scattered. That said, the best laid plans.....?

[2seater]

To cut right to the chase, it appears the coil pack/icm assembly was the problem. Starts and runs well now.

 

A couple of notes on this repair:

 

The crankshaft bolt removal was a giant PITA again. I imagined, incorrectly I might add, that since the front of the engine was apart relatively recently, it would come apart without stress. The bump the starter trick failed to remove the bolt, again, same as the first time. After checking local automotive stores, I decided to buy myself a Christmas present and get a cordless impact wrench. The manager of the store swears I will love it and the advertised 400ft/lb I thought so too. No apparent effect on bolt removal at all. Finally we decide to try the starter bump again but this time, allow a little slack between the breaker bar to frame contact. Had to hold the socket in place with a long piece of wood and stay back out of harms way, but two bumps with a bit of a bang, did the trick. Replacing the crank sensor was easy after that since that also had been apart. As it turned out, it made no difference: no spark, but I have peace of mind that it is new.

 

I had taken the original coil pack/icm assembly apart when doing the initial refurb, but it all looked good with no sign of overheating, so it was left in place. The only thing I did notice was one of the trigger wires between the coil and icm was not actually attached to the spade connector and was just trapped there, based on the impression left in the potting material. Fixed that and all has been well up to now. We prepared to install the used coil/icm that came off of my '90 in 2004 so as I was putting those pieces together, #2 son split the assembly apart that was on the car. He mentioned, and I saw, at least two of the wire connections inside were not actually connected, and perhaps more. I do not know for certain if true, but he said he had the immediate impression that there were loose wires inside the assembly. In any case, installing the known good assembly corrected the no start condition. I will examine the original coil/icm and see if there is something very odd going on there. I am sure I had it all connected correctly and it has been good for months, so why now?

 

#2 son and I are splitting the cost for four new winter tires for the red car as a Christmas present and give him the best chance of making it to school and work.

 

[2seater]

We seem to have a mystery coolant loss on the red car. Nothing obviously leaking and having a difficult time arranging to get the car for enough time to do a thorough inspection. This wasn't an issue when we first put the car in service but seems to be more evident as the weather cools off. The loss is enough that with the overflow tank full to the hot level to start, it will be pretty much empty in three to four days. Doesn't seem to affect the oil, so either being burned, (no excess exhaust smoke/steam), maybe heater core, but no telltale smell in the car, or a combination of small seepages? Time to get a coolant pressure test kit.

[Ronnie]

I'm thinking intake gaskets. Have you replaced them already when the other work was done?

[DAVES89]

Could be gaskets but I would take a hard look at the radiator. When I got the car the ant freeze was almost brown and good to about 20 degrees. I just drained the radiator and refilled it with no flush. 

 Believe it or not, but through a series of trades I have a new radiator in a box waiting for a Reatta.

[2seater]

Both items are possibilities. We did replace the radiator with the one from the donor car because the end tank had a hairline crack up near the hot hose connection. Of course being from a donor doesn't mean it has no issues either. The intake manifold was not removed and no gaskets were replaced up top. The front of the engine was taken apart and gaskets and water pump were replaced along with the timing chain. I would think that a leak large enough to use that much coolant would be obvious but not so far. Many years ago I had an Oldsmobile that had a coolant leak which only occurred when the engine was at a particular temperature, and the leak dripped on an exhaust manifold, so no residue was evident under the car. I could smell the anti freeze for sure, but it didn't leak cold or hot, just in between. 

[2seater]

It looks like the leak may be the thermostat housing. I didn't see it, but #2 son reported the o-ring was slightly visible after asking the usual question about why the housing sits crooked. Why this leak didn't appear as obvious as it should have, probably because we were looking in the wrong place. Being above the thermostat and the approximate high point in the system, the leak can migrate and dissipate, but it shouldn't have been missed. Being in a hurry is a poor excuse.?  Time will tell if that was the major player. The red car got four brand new snowshoes today, mounted to my oem wheels from my '90. We chose those because the tires were totally shot, not just bald Goodrich T/A's, but also about 20 years old. Just in time too with several inches of snow expected.

[DAVES89]

I don't remember, what wheels are you running on your car?

[2seater]

2 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

I don't remember, what wheels are you running on your car?

I just have inexpensive American Racing 16” five spoke on my car and have had for a long time. When Goodriches wore out,  I bought new wheels with the tires.

[2seater]

Grandson with the red car reports he is going to purchase a new battery. I asked if it was tested bad or was there a symptom that caused this thinking and was told the battery voltage only indicated 11.9v with the key on and engine off. A bit unclear what the actual conditions were, but I am very happy he is concerned about the car. He also reported the four new snow tires we had installed work very well in the little tiny snowfalls we have had. Certainly not the test our people are experiencing east of here?

[Ronnie]

My Reatta always reads less than 12 volts when I turn the key on. Probably because I keep the fog lights on the center console pushed in and that causes about 20 light bulbs to burn anytime the key is on.  He should have the battery load tested before buying a new one.

[DAVES89]

I agree with Ronnie. I also don't believe the battery in that car is that old either, not that it makes a difference.

[2seater]

I agree with both of your comments and I did mention, again, that the battery was only two years old based on the glovebox notebook. I believe he does the same with the fog lights, and if I count correctly, there are 26 bulbs lit when the fogs are on?

[2seater]

Grandson called today with an issue I have never experienced. He reports when he is braking normally from 30-40mph it acts normally until down to 20ish mph and he gets a chattering/pulsing in the brake pedal, like the feel of antilock activation. No red or amber warning lights. I suggested checking fluid level, the proper way, as well as checking for a loose wheel. If nothing there, pull a wheel, preferably left front, and check pad wear. Any of this sound familiar or other possibilities?

 

He also reported the power steering will not hold fluid and it is likely it is the bad pressure hose from the pump, although this is unknown. Apparently he has been driving it this way for some time, but the pump will surely burn up and I suggested it be parked for now. Difficult to do any additional investigation at this juncture since my lift has the parts car on it and my '90 parked underneath, plus three feet of snow in front of the overhead door.