Padgett Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Have you pulled the ABS codes ? To access you jumper A-H in the ALDL connector and count flashes - xxx pause xxx. 12 is all OK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted June 6, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 This car doesn’t seem to sit long enough to get the full story and checking ABS codes was next on the agenda. Our area went from covering plants overnight due to freeze warnings to temperatures in the 90’s with rising humidity in the space of one week, and we are not geared to adapt that quickly🥵 Not assigning blame, but checking codes was on the agenda for the cooler morning and the car was retrieved sort of unexpectedly last night. It will be doing duty as a summer replacement for an 03 Honda Civic hybrid with over 300k miles on the original drivetrain, in all weather👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 This is the 100 days when utility bills go up and you do not go outside unless needful. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlakesReatta Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 On 6/5/2021 at 7:45 PM, 2seater said: The black car was back on the road today and came to the cottage. It is multi colored now with a claret hood and right fender and the red headlight covers from the red car mentioned above in the junkyard post🤔 Paint may come later. We looked over the red car and found the brake pump wouldn’t run, so the issues started to come into focus. It may have been getting intermittent but finally failed. We found no power on the switching wire for the brake pump relay which traced back to the 5amp fuse in the harness under the dash. It was blown and replacing the fuse got the pump to kick in. All appeared normal but two replacement relays from the donor car failed in short order for no apparent reason? Maybe years of outdoor storage? In any case, a plain relay like used in relay centers is in place and functioning fine. The brakes no longer exhibit any odd behavior but it does appear the ABS has failed in some manner. Replacing the brake module in the trunk did nothing so that will wait for the future, maybe 🤔 At this point, the assumption is two things were in the process of failure simultaneously causing the peculiar symptoms. We still have an electrical fault warning on the ipc but everything important seems to work just fine, including the a/c. The car runs and drives great and went home for summer duty wearing relatively new snow tires😖 Looks like a coat of many colors! Glad to see all the work and care going into it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLTherio Posted July 17, 2021 Share Posted July 17, 2021 On 10/11/2020 at 12:10 AM, 2seater said: Got back to the red car today to look into the no start condition which after we thought had been cured with a anti theft bypass it turned out the neutral safety plug connection was apparently poor and proved to be pretty ugly on the inside. Cleaned it several times and the car now starts without fail. Fingers sort of crossed on this since we initially thought the anti theft bypass cured the problem but we were wrong. We installed the headlight harness on the red car as well which took maybe a half hour working alone. Much quicker than the first one. My new lift went in this morning and the red car got the first ride. This allowed us to look over the work done flat on our back and marvel at the decent and neat job, but wondering why we didn’t have the lift sooner? While underneath it looks like the possible source of an occasional clunk under the right front is a broken end link on the anti sway bar, easy fix but also found the power steering hose from the pump to the rack is leaking where the flex line connects to the steel tubing. Darn it. What brand of four post lift did you get? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted July 17, 2021 10 hours ago, RLTherio said: What brand of four post lift did you get? Tuxedo 8,000#, XLT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 3, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 3, 2021 We still haven't pulled ABS codes on the red car yet but it did get a new oil pressure sender today. The pressure indication was pinned at 255 but it now reads normally. 49psi at warm idle. It has been showing electrical problem pretty regularly. We cleared all ECM and BCM codes so will see what comes back. One is for the tape deck which we know is out but not sure of that will show the malfunction warning on the CRT? The engine is smooth and quiet. There just doesn't seem to be enough time to be as thorough as we should. We did the oil pressure sender at the same time we were reinstalling the reverser in #2 sons backhoe after we overhauled it last week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 3, 2021 Share Posted August 3, 2021 The oil sender will give an electrical warning intermittently without setting a code. That can be a hard one to figure out if you're not aware of it. Once it goes out (max pressure) like yours did it will set a code. My tape deck is bad but I've never got a code indicating that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 I think 2seater is saying not having a tape deck plugged in throws a code, not that it doesn't work throws a code... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 Yeah, I misread it. I took him saying it being out meant it was bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 4, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 4, 2021 47 minutes ago, Ronnie said: Yeah, I misread it. I took him saying it being out meant it was bad. I wasn't clear in my explanation but Dave has it right. It isn't in place. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 4, 2021 Share Posted August 4, 2021 Looks like you can subtract 8 from BCM option content #2 to say it does not have a tape deck. Wonder if menus change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 29, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 29, 2021 The red car came back to the cottage last night. There is a concern about long cranking time after sitting for a day or two. I thought it might be similar to mine which usually fires instantly but occasionally requires 5-10seconds? In this case, it does indeed require a very long crank after sitting overnight, maybe up to a minute in a couple of attempts, once started, it ran perfectly. Son also stated it would start perfectly the rest of the day after the initial problem. Fuel pressure was checked before the first starting attempt and it was perfect at 43psi indicated. I let it warm up and started to go through the diagnostics, which had both high and low TPS voltage codes and ED01 was indeed about .58. The warm idle was high but would occasionally idle down and I found the TPS indication would wander around a couple tenths with no input? Tried adjusting the TPS unsuccessfully. I would get the voltage down close to the target and the next little nudge would send the voltage all the way to the top, about 4.98v indicated. The donor car gave up its TPS. Not preferred, but in the middle of the woods anything may do. After the standard cussing about the location of the TPS, the donated one was installed and adjusted with engine off. On startup, it idled very high, 1500 rpm or so, similar to the issues that Jon was having. I went into the menu and forced the IAC to close to get the idle down, just to prove the IAC was capable of slow idle, which is was. The engine started quickly and checking the indicated TPS I found it a couple tenths low so attempted tiny adjustments with the engine running and found the tiniest adjustment to the TPS would cause the engine to idle up with no other input. It would idle back down on its own but I was surprised just how sensitive it is to small changes, even within the normal range? I am just speculating the out of whack TPS may have something to do with the hard cold start but only leaving it sit overnight will tell the tale on that. Maybe I will now get the chance to check out the ABS codes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 (edited) After sitting a while try this: turn on to run but do not start, wait three seconds then turn off, wait 2 seconds. Repeat three times. Then try to start. This should give an eight second shot from the fuel pump instead of two seconds. Edited August 29, 2021 by Padgett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 29, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 29, 2021 I will pass on the multiple prime suggestion. Prior to me looking the car earlier today I connected a fuel pressure gauge and the normal single prime cycle brings the pressure up to ~43psi. It definitely has fuel, but if it gets in the engine is of course a different question🙄 The diagnostics displays PROM ID 2204 This hasn't been an issue up to this time that I am aware of, but it is someone else's possession? Appreciate the suggestion. I went through the ABS codes, multiple times because a couple don't show up in the codes in the diagnostic page. I have codes 28, 13, 38, 42 and 78. The first two don't seem to exist in the charts? 38 and 78 are both for the left rear sensor and 42 is right front sensor, but If memory serves, these are actually reversed? Even though this is an '89, it has an early '88 Teves unit with the pressure hose rather than the steel tube. I don't know any history how or why that could be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 This is what I know about the ABS codes. They are reversed. For some reason everything we know about right and left is from the drivers seat. With the ABS it is with you standing at the hood and facing the car. Kendall told me this years ago and I have never forgotten it. Do not worry about the other codes until you get the ABS leads figured out/working. Then the codes that don't apply will clear up. However if you do have another issue besides the ABS leads they should clear out then come back as current and then need to be addressed. I have the official "break out" ABS box the shop manual refers to, you can borrow it if you want. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 29, 2021 Share Posted August 29, 2021 (edited) Not sure about the correct Prom # but I have a number of ECMs [with proms] and you welcome to try any that I have. Edited August 30, 2021 by DAVES89 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 That is an ECM (engine) PROM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 30, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 30, 2021 Dave, I think you were the one that tipped me off about the reversed locations and I guess I didn't forget completely either🙂 I will have to talk with my son about how he wants to proceed. I know I have been putting off finishing the gleaning of parts from the donor. It seems like there is always something it can give up. At the very least, I need to check out the leads on the car and possibly the whole Teves assembly. I need to get rid of it before winter. I believe we had a discussion of the ECM PROMS back when the red car was being spruced up. At the time, I think the black car, the red car and the donor each had a different '89 PROM. I know we had some issues with the ECM getting the O2 sensor to read properly, and we swapped it with the donor, I think, but not sure on the PROMS. I suspect that answer is pages back in this thread🙄 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 30, 2021 Share Posted August 30, 2021 Correction made to my post. However I don't know if I am lucky or what, but to the best of my recollection, I have never had to replace any one of the "silver boxes" in any one of my cars. I did swap out the ECM in the Red for a "test" [don't remember what the issue was] but am still running the original ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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