The Black had "issues"

[DAVES89]

Last spring when I put the Black away I knew I would have to do the brakes before driving the car full time this fall. So this week while it was a bit "slow" with work and home responsibilities I decided now was the time to do them. So I got the car out and headed over to Bob's house [my retired machinist friend] to do them. Good thing I did as we uncovered all kinds of issues. 

 I had brought along pads and rotors for both the front and rear as well as extra calipers that I had when I did the Cadillac rear caliper swap on the Red. So we started in. The fronts went well but the rears gave us real problems. The drivers side rear caliper was badly corroded and needed to be swapped out as did both rear flex brake lines. Because of the corrosion we broke the rigid lines trying to get the flex lines off. So now we are in for doing lines as well. Nobody carries Reatta flex brake lines but they do carry Cadillac Eldorado [1996-2002] and they work so we were still in business.I only needed the passenger Eldorado brake line because when doing the Eldorado caliper swap to a Reatta you must change the flex brake line on the drivers side. We also found a rear wheel hub was bad as well. Then when we done with all the brake work we fired up the car only to discover that the fuel filter that also was corroded decided to break so we had to replace that also. The connector to the filter on the bottom was rusted so bad that we used a chisel to break the filter off and then unscrewed the filter from the top line without damaging the line on the engine side of the filter. We saw that the lower fuel line connector was so badly corroded we couldn't turn the connecting nut so we cut that line and installed a fuel line splice kit. But all that cranking around caused the brake line to once again break just above the mount for the gas filter. So I went home and got another Teves unit [pays to have back stock] so we could get an idea on how to remove the lines as well then go to the store to get the fittings and line we would need to splice in a repair. 

 The trick to removing the brake lines at the Teves unit is to remove the pump and motor. You will then have access to the lines without removing the entire unit. This saves lots of time.

 Before we could bleed the brake system we checked the bleeders and you guessed it the rear passenger side was rusted in place with the bleeders nut "rounded off. We took the one off the bad caliper installed it and bled the system. We constantly were watching the resivoir to make sure we didn't run the systen dry. With the refilling and then bleeding the system we used about 1 1/2 quarts of brake fluid. 

 So I now after about 10 hours and about $175.00 have a new brake line to the rear and then both wheels with new pads and rotors all the way around. Also a new hub assembly and fuel filter. The front flex brake lines were replaced about 2-3 years ago.

 The city I live in puts salt brine down before snow storms which gets kicked up onto the components under cars. I will do better with cleaning the underside before storing the car.

 I believe I am ready for winter driving.

[Ronnie]

Wow Dave. It sounds like everything you touched turned to s**t. I'm glad to hear you did get it all fixed.

 

Look on the bright side. Just when you think you are having a bad day you see this and realize it could have been a lot worse. :)

[retired mechanic74]

Last spring when I put the Black away I knew I would have to do the brakes before driving the car full time this fall. So this week while it was a bit "slow" with work and home responsibilities I decided now was the time to do them. So I got the car out and headed over to Bob's house [my retired machinist friend] to do them. Good thing I did as we uncovered all kinds of issues. 

 I had brought along pads and rotors for both the front and rear as well as extra calipers that I had when I did the Cadillac rear caliper swap on the Red. So we started in. The fronts went well but the rears gave us real problems. The drivers side rear caliper was badly corroded and needed to be swapped out as did both rear flex brake lines. Because of the corrosion we broke the rigid lines trying to get the flex lines off. So now we are in for doing lines as well. Nobody carries Reatta flex brake lines but they do carry Cadillac Eldorado [1996-2002] and they work so we were still in business.I only needed the passenger Eldorado brake line because when doing the Eldorado caliper swap to a Reatta you must change the flex brake line on the drivers side. We also found a rear wheel hub was bad as well. Then when we done with all the brake work we fired up the car only to discover that the fuel filter that also was corroded decided to break so we had to replace that also. The connector to the filter on the bottom was rusted so bad that we used a chisel to break the filter off and then unscrewed the filter from the top line without damaging the line on the engine side of the filter. We saw that the lower fuel line connector was so badly corroded we couldn't turn the connecting nut so we cut that line and installed a fuel line splice kit. But all that cranking around caused the brake line to once again break just above the mount for the gas filter. So I went home and got another Teves unit [pays to have back stock] so we could get an idea on how to remove the lines as well then go to the store to get the fittings and line we would need to splice in a repair. 

 The trick to removing the brake lines at the Teves unit is to remove the pump and motor. You will then have access to the lines without removing the entire unit. This saves lots of time.

 Before we could bleed the brake system we checked the bleeders and you guessed it the rear passenger side was rusted in place with the bleeders nut "rounded off. We took the one off the bad caliper installed it and bled the system. We constantly were watching the resivoir to make sure we didn't run the systen dry. With the refilling and then bleeding the system we used about 1 1/2 quarts of brake fluid. 

 So I now after about 10 hours and about $175.00 have a new brake line to the rear and then both wheels with new pads and rotors all the way around. Also a new hub assembly and fuel filter. The front flex brake lines were replaced about 2-3 years ago.

 The city I live in puts salt brine down before snow storms which gets kicked up onto the components under cars. I will do better with cleaning the underside before storing the car.

 I believe I am ready for winter driving.

 

DAVES89 If I could make a suggestion. After being in Michigan for the better part of 60 years I found that any work done to the undercarriage (fittings, bleeders, retaining bolts) is to cover them with silicone gasket maker. It give you a little bit of a problem with cleanup if you have to remove something but I rather have that then a rounded or broken part.

[DAVES89]

Not a bad idea. I try to use anti seize wherever I can. Hopefully this will be the last time for this car. My plan is to get 2-3 years out of it as I have year round storage at a widow lady's house as payment for snow blowing and odd job work. I store the Red in the winter there and the Black in the summer. Helps keep the garage/driveway a little less congested. But she is 82 now so how long can that last?

So if/when I lose storage that may be the end of the Black as I am not one to pay for storage. It will become a "donor" car which is too bad as it still looks pretty good and runs great. But then again 2-3 more winters and the body might not be so nice.

[fordrodsteven]

Here in Massachusetts they use salt in some areas, a mix of salt & sand in other areas and then a spray chemical that is made from some sort of salt and other crap mixed in. Who knows what it does to our cars. I only drive the F150 in the winter and every time I gas up I go through the car wash with an undercarriage wash. I also (like retired mechanic 74) put some sort of protector on threads whenever I am working under the truck.

[Frogware]

I think also with the Humidity it adds to the whole scheme, of course no matter where you live it is just downright hard to take care of cars nowadays with all that salt and chemicals on the roads.

[DAVES89]

What makes it really hard is driving it just in the winter and then leaving it sit for 6 months for the salt to work on it...

[DAVES89]

Well looks like the Black's issues have somewhat resufaced. I had noticed a small "wet" spot under the drivers door. I chose to ignore it for a couple of days. But this morning before leaving for appointments I decided I was in need of an oil change. So 6:15 am this morning I start in changing the oil. While it is draining I thought I would take a look at the leak. Turns out it was the compression coupling for the fuel line repair we did [see above]. I thought I could just snug it up a bit, but when I did the top of the nut broke off.

Gas all over while I scrambled for another pan to catch the gas. Once the pressure was released the gas stopped leaking so I then removed the line at the filter so I could make my repair.

As luck would have it I had extra compression rings and an at least 30 year old American made compression nut [Heavier brass].

First back on with the end at the filter then reconnected the spliced end.

Fired up the car and more gas all over. It appears I didn't have the repaired end nut tight enough so I kept snugging it up until it stopped leaking.

220 miles later still no leaks so I think I am good. Yesterday I put on 270 miles so that's 500 miles in two days.

Never been stranded or a day without a Reatta...

[ski.dive]

Dave;

I believe you hold the record for ''most miles driven per year'' on an old Buick Reatta!!! :)

[DAVES89]

Thanks Skydive I do enjoy driving them but it can be difficult keeping them going. Right now I am dealing with a "no heat" situation on the Black. It also popped up yesterday. The HVAC system works through all the vents [defrost,dash,and floor] but sporadic heat. I removed the glove box and the rod is intact but doesn't move. So for right now I just moved the rod to a different adjustment point where I get heat. I will try to swap the controller [good to have back stock] out this weekend.

Gotta have heat!

[Ronnie]

This must be the week for Reattas to give trouble. I went out Monday to start my Reatta and it turned really slow so I cut the key off and put the charger on the battery thinking the problem was it sitting for a while without being started. Came back about 3 hours later and the battery charger was still charging 10 amps like the battery was dead. Usually the meter has dropped back to almost 0 when charging for 3 hours. Sure enough, when I tried to start the engine it turned a couple of times and then just clicked. So, off I go to NAPA to get a new one. The battery was a 75 month NAPA battery that was 53 months old. I got a little money off a new one since some of the pro-rated warranty was left. They didn't have the exact same battery so they gave me a 84 month battery with more cranking amps in it's place for the same money. Out the door with tax was $110.00 which I though was a decent deal. 

 

Now I wonder what is going to go bad next with the car sitting in the garage under a cover? :)

[DAVES89]

At least my stuff goes out while I am driving it, so I get something for my money...

[DAVES89]

Swapped out the controller to day at Bob's house [yes I did the work]. After I got done it worked great so I have good heat and at the temperature I set it at. When we got done I told Bob that my wife complains that there is not enough heat at her feet [she mostly wears pumps and no socks] so I asked Bob if he could make an additional plenum to direct heat to her feet. He mad a plenum about 8" longer with a curve on the end and it looks and works pretty good. Of course tonight we went downtown to look at the annual "live" manequin displays in the windows so she didn't notice.

So I will know more the next time.