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Is my accumulator bad?


DAVES89

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Whenever you are ready. Only thing I have on my plate is a couple of "around the house" projects and a dash swap for the Red when I get it from Kdirk.

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I've not checked my front hoses in a few years. Last time was probably when I replaced the struts. I need to do that soon.

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I did get the remainder of the flushing completed this morning and there does seem to be a marginal improvement in the number of pumps before pump restart. I found it now takes (4) pumps consistently. The other item is it takes the full (25) pumps to get a hard pedal when pumping the accumulator down. With the standard accumulator I generally got 15-18 but the larger Hydac has consistently shown a greater reserve, maybe not at normal braking levels, but an increased safety factor.

 

I did not change the rear hoses, and I forgot there are actually three, as they receive no twisting force and I wasn't in the mood to change steel lines as mentioned above. By the way, the car has 137k miles on it.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I also purchase and installed a Spinning Wheels accumulator on my '90 vert. It seemed fine at first but I'm noticing the same problem as Ronnie's. Pump runs a lot like after coming to a 2nd stop light. I also only get about 2 pumps before it comes on. My abs and or brake light do not come on though. I'm interested if it's the Accumulator or the switch

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  • 1 month later...

I could use some help.

 

There seems to be a problem with the Accumulator Testing Instructions tutorial here on ROJ. I intended to address it before now but just forgot it. I apologize for not following up on it.

 

From the testing that 2seater has done it appears the following statement about fluid drop in the tutorial is incorrect. Please read through the tutorial so you will understand the context in which the following paragraph is written.

"If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is on its last legs."

 

I'm thinking about changing it to the following but I would like some input from you guys before doing so. Let me know if the following paragraph is accurate or if I should say something different. Thanks!

If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is probably in good working order. If the fluid drops 5/8 inch or greater your accumulator may be on its last legs.

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I could use some help.

 

There seems to be a problem with the Accumulator Testing Instructions tutorial here on ROJ. I intended to address it before now but just forgot it. I apologize for not following up on it.

 

From the testing that 2seater has done it appears the following statement about fluid drop in the tutorial is incorrect. Please read through the tutorial so you will understand the context in which the following paragraph is written.

"If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is on its last legs."

 

I'm thinking about changing it to the following but I would like some input from you guys before doing so. Let me know if the following paragraph is accurate or if I should say something different. Thanks!

If the fluid level change is 1/2 inch or less, your accumulator is probably in good working order. If the fluid drops 5/8 inch or greater your accumulator may be on its last legs.

I have read those instructions before and never picked up on the implication :huh: .  I believe the new wording is accurate and does describe the situation correctly. The only caveat would be that zero, or almost zero, change indicates a perforated or blown diaphragm in the accumulator. I guess there would be a second clarification too: the instructions only apply to the standard size accumulator ball.

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  • 1 month later...

Dave and I tested another pump, a few accumulators and a couple of switches today. The only reason I bring this up is we discovered an almost completely discharged ball will hold pressure for a very long time, even when the high pressure gauge indicates it is depleted. The pressure is so low, maybe 25-50#, that it really doesn't have the energy to push the fluid out, but will seek escape when unscrewing the ball. I am not certain how this would equate to the number of pumps to deplete the ball since this was on the bench, but I would guess it may take more than standard. It really isn't dangerous, but it is messy :)

 

Dave gave me a derelict pump assembly with a dead motor that may work to make a complete assembly by switching out the motor on the early '88 pump with this one and provide a donor for exploration of replacing the brushes in the motor. A good deal all around.

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I discovered the hard way that pumping the pedal until the pedal doesn't mean all the pressure is out of the ball. I was testing a ball I got from Dave on Monday and I got sprayed even though I had pumped the pedal until it was hard. I learned a good lesson.

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My pump runs 4 seconds after pressure draw down, i have talked to several folks who sell replacememt accuators 650.00 i am having trouble with the fact that theves systems were used on so many cars and there is no alternative applications? Looked into mitsobishi but pressure was t low. Jag and caddy had theves why wont tat accumulator work, also looking into conversion kit sold on ebay 195.00 any info?

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Welcome to the forum! You can get an accumulator from spinningwheels-sc.com for less than $200. You will have to call and tell them you want on their list to get one. I have tried one of theirs and they do work on the Teves brake system.

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also looking into conversion kit sold on ebay 195.00 any info?

 

What is the Ebay listing number for the conversion kit that you are talking about?

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My pump runs 4 seconds after pressure draw down, i have talked to several folks who sell replacememt accuators 650.00 i am having trouble with the fact that theves systems were used on so many cars and there is no alternative applications? Looked into mitsobishi but pressure was t low. Jag and caddy had theves why wont tat accumulator work, also looking into conversion kit sold on ebay 195.00 any info?

 

There apparently is a Wabco unit that works on our system that the Range Rover guys discovered. The price is in the same ballpark as the Spinning Wheels unit. I have no personal experience with it but is supposed to work fine and delivery is fast.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/272609473117

 

Edit: I actually toyed with the idea of buying one just to test it.

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I also purchase and installed a Spinning Wheels accumulator on my '90 vert. It seemed fine at first but I'm noticing the same problem as Ronnie's. Pump runs a lot like after coming to a 2nd stop light. I also only get about 2 pumps before it comes on. My abs and or brake light do not come on though. I'm interested if it's the Accumulator or the switch

 

I need one also but says out of stock,    will the one they sell work on my 90? I talked to the guys who are selling new for 650.00 ??? Match original . What big difference. Spinning wheel 155.00. Spinning wheel out of business???

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Cant find the post where someone was asking where on ebay i found abs conversion kit...i just entered reatta abs conversion kit.  Showed up 64-72-gm

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What is the Ebay listing number for the conversion kit that you are talking about?

 

Just entered reatta abs conversion kit...first one 195.00

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Jaguar accumulator ball, jlm 1907 posted on ebay delco 25528382 the seller says it will work on my 1990 reatta, can some one post a simple answer to this question..

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The Jaguar one will work. The #25528382 is a GM part number. Why don't you take a look at the Wabco unit 2seater posted a link to?

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Jaguar accumulator ball, jlm 1907 posted on ebay delco 25528382 the seller says it will work on my 1990 reatta, can some one post a simple answer to this question..

 

What's the cost?

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Ronnie, what you said makes perfect sense. That was my ultimate goal. It is also my concern regarding how precise the measurement will be on the broad reservoir, but only testing will tell the tail. A two step process would be in order, get a known volume on the bench, install the ball and test on the car.  I am woefully behind my springtime schedule but will get to this soon.

Hey guys if I could chime in ( I may be out of the ballpark here but) From what I've read everything you have been testing with is used ( even the almost new parts) The biggest problem with the Teves system is contamination and that sounds like what your dealing with. In all the years I have dealing with this system contamination was always number one do to the system running hot and cooking the brake fluid. I would suggest if you want to know what the proper pressures are call a company known as Cardone they re-manufacture the Teves pump assembly you can get the phone number from AutoZone. With that information you can get a good idea as to what your units should be. The knowledge I acquired over the years I spent at GM dealerships on the Teves system is one of the main reasons I removed it from my car and went to standard power brakes. It's nice not having to deal with it anymore.

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