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Current Projects - wheel hub - trans output shaft seal replacement - ball joint - headlight electrical - cooling fans


ExtraWashers

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Hi all,

 

The closer I look at my Reatta, the more things I'm finding wrong with it. Luckily I got it for a fairly good price.

 

  • I'm trying to replace a lug stud on the front left wheel hub and its looking like I have to take apart the wheel hub assembly to get enough room to put the new on in. Anyone know what size the Torx cap bolt is? The biggest I have at the moment is a T50.

 

  • I bought the new trans output shaft seal at my local auto parts store and am in the process of putting it in. Is there anything important I should do now that I've got the axle out and everything accessible? In the process I found the left ball joint rubber boot split, which brings  me to my next question.

 

  • Am I correct in having to drill out the rivets from old lower ball joint bracket on the control arm? The new ball joint should arrive tomorrow with all the hardware needed.

 

  • I replaced both left and right headlight assembly mechanical parts (bellcrank arm and internal gearing parts) and now that I've got everything hooked back up, the lights wont raise. They do come on when the button is pressed. Also I have no high beams.

 

  • Even after getting to temperature, neither cooling fan comes on. I haven't checked the voltage on either electrical lead yet, but I would think at least one would work.

 

As you can probably guess, my Reatta has a lot of issues to work out. I was hoping to make it my daily driver for the short commute to work. 

I would greatly appreciate any help or advice you might give. I can take some photos if needed.

 

Thanks! -EW-

(I'm also still looking for a good FSM and repair book if anyone has a resource)

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12 minutes ago, ExtraWashers said:

I replaced both left and right headlight assembly mechanical parts (bellcrank arm and internal gearing parts) and now that I've got everything hooked back up, the lights wont raise. They do come on when the button is pressed. Also I have no high beams.

Will the doors open when you push the button in front of the shifter on the console?

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14 minutes ago, ExtraWashers said:

Even after getting to temperature, neither cooling fan comes on. I haven't checked the voltage on either electrical lead yet, but I would think at least one would work.

Turn on the A/C and one fan should come on. Does it?

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2 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Turn on the A/C and one fan should come on. Does it?

Neither fan will turn on, even with A/C on.

 

2 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Will the doors open when you push the button in front of the shifter on the console?

The battery is disconnected at the moment but I do remember trying all different kinds of things trying to troubleshoot. I can't remember if the lights will go down pushing the above button after manually raising them. Once I get the left axle and everything put back together I'll crank it and try again.

 

I should have mentioned this in my original post, but someone before me had spliced two wires from the passenger side headlight motor leads into the driver side motor leads. I removed the added wires and hooked the driver side motor back into its electricl connector, taping over the exposed copper of the wires with electrical tape. Maybe the guy knew something I didn't but the lights didn't raise before due to the mechanical parts mentioned above being totally shot. At this point, I'm starting to suspect there is a wiring harness issue causing these problems.

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Sounds like you have several electrical problems. You should start a new topic for each one. It avoids confusion that occurs when trying to discuss a lot of different problems all at once.

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In hindsight, I probably should have made different topics but I didn't want to clutter up the forum too much. 

 

You can delete this if you want, Ronnie and I'll make a new thread for each issue I'm having concerns about.

 

Thanks, -EW- 

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I'm guessing I need to focus on the mechanicals for the time being.

 

That being the ball joint rivets in the existing control arm and the lug stud in the hub. 

 

Has anyone removed the original ball joints? Did you have to do any drilling? 

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19 hours ago, ExtraWashers said:

Hi all,

 

The closer I look at my Reatta, the more things I'm finding wrong with it. Luckily I got it for a fairly good price.

 

  • I'm trying to replace a lug stud on the front left wheel hub and its looking like I have to take apart the wheel hub assembly to get enough room to put the new on in. Anyone know what size the Torx cap bolt is? The biggest I have at the moment is a T50.

 

  • I bought the new trans output shaft seal at my local auto parts store and am in the process of putting it in. Is there anything important I should do now that I've got the axle out and everything accessible? In the process I found the left ball joint rubber boot split, which brings  me to my next question.

 

  • Am I correct in having to drill out the rivets from old lower ball joint bracket on the control arm? The new ball joint should arrive tomorrow with all the hardware needed.

 

  • I replaced both left and right headlight assembly mechanical parts (bellcrank arm and internal gearing parts) and now that I've got everything hooked back up, the lights wont raise. They do come on when the button is pressed. Also I have no high beams.

 

  • Even after getting to temperature, neither cooling fan comes on. I haven't checked the voltage on either electrical lead yet, but I would think at least one would work.

 

As you can probably guess, my Reatta has a lot of issues to work out. I was hoping to make it my daily driver for the short commute to work. 

I would greatly appreciate any help or advice you might give. I can take some photos if needed.

 

Thanks! -EW-

(I'm also still looking for a good FSM and repair book if anyone has a resource)

The Torx is either a 50 or 55 mm. You have to drill out the rivets. Your replacement will come with nuts and bolts to reinstall. Watch ebay for FSM. They show up every so often.

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5 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

The Torx is either a 50 or 55 mm. You have to drill out the rivets. Your replacement will come with nuts and bolts to reinstall. Watch ebay for FSM. They show up every so often

Thanks for the help, Dave! I'm looking forward to getting back to working on the Reatta this weekend.

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