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1990 Instrument cluster doesn't always light up


Edsel-to-Reatta

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I'm new to ROJ, Reatta newbie here, an admirer since they were new, and now finally a proud owner of a Select 60. One of my other classic cars is a 1958 Edsel, hence my screen name. The simplicity of 1950's cars has made ownership and DIY work fairly simple in comparison to the daunting complexity of cars of Reatta's vintage. I only considering buying a Reatta knowing this and other forums with expert knowledge and parts are available. Thanks in advance to Reatta owners and gurus for sharing your advice. I hope to enjoy many years of happy Reatta motoring!

 

My first challenge is now resolved, with stumbling performance problems fixed by converting the ignition system from Magnavox to Delco. Lesson learned: an old ICM from a donor car in a wrecking yard is an iffy proposition. The first Delco ICM I installed was from a 1998 Pick-a-Part donor, and was no better than the Magnavox it replaced. A brand new Delco D1977A from Rock Auto solved the problem. My Reatta runs great now.

 

Second challenge needs advice please. The instrument cluster lights up intermittently when the ignition key is switched on. When it lights up, it's perfect. Other times, it's dark. When turning the ignition key, if I hear a slight relay click from the passenger side of the instrument panel, the cluster will light up. If I don't hear that relay click, sure enough the cluster doesn't light up. If I turn the key off and try again, eventually I will hear that relay click and the cluster lights up. Sometimes multiple restarts are needed to finally get that relay click and cluster function. When it lights up, it's bright and perfect.

 

I bought the shop manual set. After some reading the shop manual, am I correct in thinking there might be a BCM problem? It seems the BCM is behind the glovebox, which is where I seem to hear that relay click when the cluster lights up. I see Rock Auto sells rebuilt BCM's for $97.79 + $28 core. I don't want to start replacing costly components taking wild guesses, but if the experts say the BCM is the likely culprit, I'll buy one. How difficult is the BCM to access and swap? The Rock Auto listing says "Plug & Play, no programming required."

 

Is the BCM the likely culprit?

 

Next project: flushing the old brake fluid, replacing rubber brake hoses, installing a rebuilt accumulator. My original accumulator is only good for 1-2 brake presses before the pump runs. I will follow the how-to guide for this job.

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Welcome to the forum!

 

I don't have a '90 model so I can't offer much help. However, I'm doubting the BCM is the problem. I don't think it has any relays inside that would click. If you determine that the BCM is the problem it should be easy to access by removing the glovebox. 

 

There are some hidden relays in the center console that might click and sound like they are coming from the BCM area.

 

console_photos_1.jpg

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Welcome to the forum.  Select 60 is a fine looking Reatta, especially the interior flame red details!

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  • 1 month later...
On 7/22/2023 at 2:04 PM, Edsel-to-Reatta said:

I bought the shop manual set

Hi Edsel, can you point me in the right direction of a good place to purchase those manuals? 

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On 8/31/2023 at 5:58 PM, ExtraWashers said:

Hi Edsel, can you point me in the right direction of a good place to purchase those manuals? 

I bought mine on ebay. It wasn't cheap: $107.99. It looks like a new reprint, perfect condition, two thick volumes. My Reatta is a 1990, so I googled "1990 Reatta Service Manual" and several options are shown. I have owned many old cars over the years and do as much servicing as I am capable of...a service/shop manual is essential to me.

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Looks like ebay was the right place to get an actual paper manual and not a download. I figured I needed one sooner than later so I got one for a similar price. 

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On 9/8/2023 at 12:19 PM, ExtraWashers said:

Looks like ebay was the right place to get an actual paper manual and not a download. I figured I needed one sooner than later so I got one for a similar price. 

Pricey for sure, and not the easiest manual to understand, and difficult to navigate when you're trying to get to a specific problem or task. You'll be glad to have the hardcopy.

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  • 4 weeks later...

E-to-R

Did you resolve the instrument panel problem? Last week my '90 started the exact same issue. Lights up normally, or not at all. I also noticed the "clicking" when it lights correctly and no clicking when dark.

Was it a relay? If yes which one?

Can you also point me to the page in the shop manual that you found it on? I read the manual and found a couple of places it might be, but have to admit I find those electrical sections a challenge.

Thanks, John

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On 10/4/2023 at 6:37 AM, NHMaui said:

E-to-R

Did you resolve the instrument panel problem? Last week my '90 started the exact same issue. Lights up normally, or not at all. I also noticed the "clicking" when it lights correctly and no clicking when dark.

Was it a relay? If yes which one?

Can you also point me to the page in the shop manual that you found it on? I read the manual and found a couple of places it might be, but have to admit I find those electrical sections a challenge.

Thanks, John

Yes, IPC problem resolved. I purchased a non-working IPC from Jim Finn and sent it to Cluster Fix for repair. They did an excellent and fast job, even polishing the lens to like-new appearance. When I received the repaired cluster, I swapped it with the defective cluster, and voila, the IPC now lights up every time. I paid a bit extra for the Cluster Fix 3 year extended warranty. I highly recommend Cluster Fix. Based on what Reatta experts told me, 90% of cluster issues are the cluster itself. I had no desire to tackle the innards of that cluster myself...a job best left to the pros who have "seen it all" and know exactly what to do to fix the problems for reliable service.

Edited by Edsel-to-Reatta
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I've heard good things re: Cluster Fix.  Luckly, I've not had to use them, but they are in my "Favorites List".

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Just looked at their website. Price is not bad. I noticed they don't do 1988/89. Probably because they are so robust.

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Thanks for the follow up and info. I was hoping something I could tackle myself, like a relay.

Will take a look at Cluster Fix.

I appreciate the lead for a direction to proceed.

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Sometimes it's just a loose cable connection behind the IPC.  Have you looked into pulling the IPC from the dash and check?

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On 10/6/2023 at 7:28 AM, NHMaui said:

Thanks for the follow up and info. I was hoping something I could tackle myself, like a relay.

Will take a look at Cluster Fix.

I appreciate the lead for a direction to proceed.

Before sending your cluster for repair, I suggest you remove your cluster and spray contact cleaner on the male and female electrical contacts, and reseat the cluster a couple of times to wipe off possible corrosion, then see if there is any improvement. Just leave the face panel off for awhile during your test period over a few days. If the intermittent problem persists, Cluster Fix is there for you. Follow the instructions in this video on the Cluster Fix website to remove your cluster. This video is for a Riviera...same same as 90-91 Reatta. https://clusterfix.net/store/buick-riviera-instrument-cluster-removal-2

 

While the dash faceplate is off, this is an ideal time to freshen up the mottled plastic chrome bezel as I am doing. You can cut off the little abs plastic tabs and separate the plastic chrome bezel from the faceplate, then reattach them after restoring the shiny bezel. I might do that with a soldering iron to re-melt the black plastic tabs, or use super glue or JB Weld. I'm still experimenting with chrome-y paints. I'm waiting for a paint from the UK called "Mirror" that looks to have an authentic chrome appearance. It's $50 for a tiny bottle, and shipment takes weeks. Brush it on following instructions in their video with a micron thin coat. I'm not loving chrome spray paints so far. https://www.culturehustleusa.com/products/mirror

IMG_0558.jpg

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Ship and E-to-R,

Thanks for the excellent suggestions for some testing to do to see if it might be just a connection issue. Really hope it might be, of course. It is a likely possibility since the car is otherwise in very good condition, being garaged and only summer driven since new (and rarely even driven in the rain). I could envision some corrosion building up over the years, as it wouldn't take much to interrupt the connection.

 

That link to the clusterfix video was very good since it gave a couple of great hints at removal. The shop manual just shows a line drawing which didn't have any real detail, as I am sure you know.

 

I'm going to go very carefully with the removal because I haven't done any panel removal and I suspect some of the plastic could be brittle. I did have the headliner redone a few years ago and removed it to take to the upholstery shop. That was a very careful job since the backing panel is so fragile - something I was made aware of by the great removal instructions on ROJ.

 

John

 

Edited by NHMaui
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11 minutes ago, NHMaui said:

Ship and E-to-R,

Thanks for the excellent suggestions for some testing to do to see if it might be just a connection issue. Really hope it might be, of course. It is a likely possibility since the car is otherwise in very good condition, being garaged and only summer driven since new (and rarely even driven in the rain). I could envision some corrosion building up over the years, as it wouldn't take much to interrupt the connection.

 

That link to the clusterfix video was very good since it gave a couple of great hints at removal. The shop manual just shows a line drawing which didn't have any real detail, as I am sure you know.

 

I'm going to go very carefully with the removal because I haven't done any panel removal and I suspect some of the plastic could be brittle. I did have the headliner redone a few years ago and removed it to take to the upholstery shop. That was a very careful job since the backing panel is so fragile - something I was made aware of by the great removal instructions on ROJ.

 

John

 

I just finished front and rear strut replacement, made far less intimidating than the factory service manual, thanks to the how to guides on ROJ.

 

In my case, re-seating the IPC and cleaning the contacts didn't help, but it's worth a try. Cluster Fix to the rescue!

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I have seen a few '90/'91 Reatta and '90/'93 Riviera IPC's now and again on evil bay.

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There's a 1990 Reatta in the You Pick [Gibson's] near me that has a IPC and Headlight switch. My 'vert is in Texas so I can't test it and I have like 3-4 Headlight switches in backstock and at least 1 IPC so I should be good.

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I checked my IPC inventory today.  I actually have accumulated five extras over time (didn't know I had that many).  I've not tested any of them as of yet but will put that on a "to do" list shortly.  At a time back in the day, I owned two 7th gen Rivieras and two Reattas, all at the same time.  So, I must have justified the need to have "a few" in inventory just in case.

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Ship other then a "true" parts seller I think you and I have the most parts. I believe other then body parts, engine, transmission we could replace almost anything. I am seriously thinking of buying drive shafts to go with my rack and pinion.  I even have a windshield, suede 16 way bucket seats and a new after market radiator in my parts bin.

But then again my local You Pick has at least 6 Reattas and 7-8 1988-1993 Rivs in it.  Mostly picked over but still...

My two mechanic friends don't believe it when I don't have a part already in inventory.

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