derdachshund Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Hello, long time reader, first time poster. (Yes, I’ve been through all 93 pages of this forum, researching!) Been a long road back from the dead for the ’90 light blue Reatta. (I’ll make a separate thread on the back story) It’s not in good shape, but I’ve fixed many things, and am down to the last big hurdle…..yes, the brakes. Right now they do not have any boost, so they are hard to apply, but do stop the car. You just need to be Magillah Gorilla to do it. The pump never ran when I first got the car running. I’ve done a lot of testing/trouble shooting and finally just jumped 12V from the battery to the pump and the pump is dead/stuck. So I need a new one. I know it’s an “assembly” with the switch and accumulator. It’s probably not beyond me to just take the pump off and apart and see what’s going on. It’s also not beyond me to do the S-10/Riviera booster, master swap, although it looks like the Rivi booster is a bit scarce. Any sources (or if anyone has a good one laying around) for the pump would be appreciated. Anyone whose done a swap feel free to chime in, too. Thanks -derdachshund Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 I can't be much help. Never had much trouble out of my brakes. There was a guy here from Germany that took the pump completely apart and posted lots of photos. If you want to try to fix your pump you might find his thread helpful. The problem you might have with the vacuum booster changeover, besides losing ABS, is matching up the brake lines. The Teves uses different fitting than the GM master cylinders with a vacuum booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derdachshund Posted July 18, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 11 minutes ago, Ronnie said: ............ The problem you might have with the vacuum booster changeover, besides losing ABS, is matching up the brake lines. The Teves uses different fitting than the GM master cylinders with a vacuum booster. Yep, very aware of that. I'll have to find the "german guy" thread. BTW, thank you very much for the forum, Ronnie. It's been an immense help in research and getting the car running.😎👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 I'm glad you find ROJ useful. This is the thread I was referring to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derdachshund Posted July 19, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 (edited) OK, just read all 6 pages of the German guy thread......I'll bet dollars to donuts only my motor is bad. The car has been sitting since 2004 and I'll bet the springs rusted or the brushes are stuck. And not rebuildable....Arggg. My alternator was bad, too Hard to take the motor off? -derdachshund Edited July 19, 2023 by derdachshund Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 Two long bolts hold the motor to the pump. There is a ring shaped seal and a strainer between the pump and motor, but nothing actually connected. The pump is driven by a floating disc labeled as the clutch in this diagram. The motor shaft ends in a tang that engages a slot in the center of the disc which has a dog ear on opposite sides which in turn engages the pump drive. All of the parts are a loose fit so getting everything to line up at the same time can be tedious and frustrating. Stand on end for best results. I have never found an aftermarket motor or any success with two local motor repair places to repair one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derdachshund Posted July 19, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted July 19, 2023 Well, good news. After tapping on the motor for a bit and applying 12V on and off, via a jumper, I got the pump to run! Will have to wait to start the car till my new alternator from Rock Auto arrives later this week. Will check back when that comes. 😊👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 19, 2023 Share Posted July 19, 2023 One thing I forgot to mention, and perhaps now it won't even need to be explored. The motor itself seals one side of the fluid inlet chamber to the pump. The inlet line from the reservoir needs to be removed or clamped off before removing the motor or the fluid will run out. Best of luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derdachshund Posted July 25, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted July 25, 2023 (edited) Gooder news! After replacing the alternator and putting everything back together, I started the car and now have a good charging system and.......BRAKES! Stops very nice without having to be the Hulk. It also turned the yellow ABS brake light out, but I still have the red one. I thought it was the parking brake but no, it was not set. Have a "Service A/C" light, too. So have more goodies to explore. I'll take it on more than just a round the block drive shortly and report more. EDIT- Changing the alternator ranks right up there with "the easiest thing I've ever done working on a car". Thanks for the help. -derdachshund Edited July 25, 2023 by derdachshund 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 26, 2023 Share Posted July 26, 2023 If the yellow abs light works and it goes out when the brakes pressurize, the pump must be attaining the proper pressure, so the problem lies elsewhere. It can also be brake fluid level as well but be sure to depressurize by pumping the pedal before checking fluid level. If there is any slack in the parking brake cable under the car when the parking brake is released, it will not move the sector gear at the pedal far enough to turn the light off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted July 26, 2023 Share Posted July 26, 2023 On cars with a CRT you can look at BCM inputs and see if low brake fluid or the parking brake is causing the red warning light to come on. Is that possible on later models that don't have a CRT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted July 26, 2023 Share Posted July 26, 2023 5 hours ago, Ronnie said: On cars with a CRT you can look at BCM inputs and see if low brake fluid or the parking brake is causing the red warning light to come on. Is that possible on later models that don't have a CRT? Yes, the inputs mentioned are all available on the later models too, just without the nice text on a computer screen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derdachshund Posted August 4, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted August 4, 2023 (edited) Finally got the car to the point where I could take it for more than just a idle down the driveway and around the house. Got the red brake light to extinguish for a bit, so I do think it is the fluid level in the reservoir. At startup, now that the brakes are working, you’re met with a plethora of new sounds coming from the engine bay. Has to be the Teves initiating. Got the car up to 65 mph on a rural highway around here, and found out why these cars don’t have much appeal to the masses back in the day, as the acceleration was very underwhelming. The brakes worked just fine hauling the car down from that speed and it cruised along no problem. In fact it didn’t seem like it was going 65, but the dash said otherwise. I either have a faulty sensor or a bad connection at the oil pressure sender as the pressure would build to about half the gauge then start jumping all over the place. But the thing that really scared me most was the engine temp gauge just kept creeping up and up till it was at over ¾ level. Whoa, and I slowed way down and decided to turn around and head back before I did any damage. As I accelerated again the gauge came down to half way and stayed there. I think since it hasn’t been run since 2004, the thermostat must have been a bit stuck, hopefully it isn’t normal for it to do that. I do know these cars run on the hot side, and I think halfway on the gauge is fine, but whoa, my heart leapt as the gauge climbed above 75 percent. Next is a oil and coolant change. Oh, and a brake fluid flush, too. Edited August 4, 2023 by derdachshund Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 4, 2023 Share Posted August 4, 2023 Oil pressure sender is a known problem, and unfortunately is also common. Replace the sending unit and it should be happy. While underway, engine temperature indicator should be around the center point. It is normal for the temperature to rise higher in stop and go traffic as the low speed fan is set for over 200*F and the high speed higher still. On the 1990 both fans should run, low speed is wired in series and high speed fans are wired parallel. If the AC is on, I believe they should run at low speed or more, continuously. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ship Posted August 5, 2023 Share Posted August 5, 2023 17 hours ago, 2seater said: Oil pressure sender is a known problem, and unfortunately is also common. Replace the sending unit and it should be happy. I've replaced the oil pressure sender 4 times in the ten years I've owned my '91. They just tend to be junk.... oil pressure is usually just fine. You mentioned that you have yet to change the coolant and oil. Therefore, the temp raise was bound to happen. Also, put in a new thermostat and new hoses, top and bottom. The std thermostat is a 195*, but you could experiment with a lower at 180*. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derdachshund Posted August 5, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted August 5, 2023 New oil pressure sender under way... Don't doubt the car will over heat in traffic, but I was going 65 and the gauge just kept climbing.😬 I'll have to check the thermostat when I change coolant. I haven't changed the oil or coolant because the kid and his dad, I bought the car off of, had changed them both while they were trying to get the car started. Oil isn't dark at all on the dipstick. I'm going to change it anyways again, but I don't think the 6 mile drive I did with the car hurt anything. Coolant looks very nice, bright green, and the inside of the radiator is very clean, too. Changing it also, for peace of mind.😎👍 Thanks for the help. -derdachshund 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derdachshund Posted August 18, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted August 18, 2023 Little update, I think I'll start a new thread because my brakes are working fine. Changed the oil and the coolant......no, both had NOT been changed by the previous owner. Oil and filter change went fine, coolant on the other hand.....😬 Nice and green in the radiator, nasty rusty brown when drained. Twice. Decided to do a complete overhaul of the system. New water pump (very easy to replace), thermostat, and o-ring at the elbow above the thermostat. Buttoned up and started it up and gauge rose again to over 3/4, and coolant was leaking out the bolt holding the elbow on. Grrr. That elbow is not a fun part to put back on. Also the fans never came on. So found the "pusher" fan is junk as when I jumped it, it only turned at about 5 RPM and the jumper wires got red hot. Also did get a new oil pressure sensor installed although I haven't started the car again yet as........the key decided to get stuck in the ignition tumbler and I ended up tearing the column apart again to get the tumbler/key out. At the locksmith as I type. Bringing a car back that's been sitting for so long (2004) is more than just getting it running. I'm going to have a complete new car when I'm done. Oh wait, I forgot about the interior fan running, even with the key out! Battery cable off stopped that.🤪 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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