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Axle CV joint rubber boot cracked


Ronnie

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I changed the oil and filter on my Reatta today and rotated the tires. When I removed the left front tire I noticed grease on the brake torque reaction rod. I discovered the rubber boot on the inside cv joint on the axle has a crack in it allowing the grease to sling out. Has anyone used one of the Dorman boot kits that supposedly can allow you to replace the rubber boot without removing the axle? Or will I need to remove the axle and install a new boot?

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I did and it worked, did not have to remove the axle but is all I remember.

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1 hour ago, Padgett said:

I did and it worked, did not have to remove the axle but is all I remember.

Thanks Padgett. I appreciate the input. Now to find one that will fit. I've been told the ones that use small bolts with nuts to hold them together are best if I can find one.

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Ronnie, there's one listed on Rock Auto that I believe is what you're looking for.  It's called a "speedi-boot".  Although I know you don't particular care for Rock Auto, you might find one similar at a local auto parts store or maybe even eBay.  Sometimes they're called "quick boot".

DORMAN 03662 Speedi-Boot; Large End ID: 3.54" (90mm); Large End Circ.; 11.12" (282mm); Small End ID: 1.08" (27mm); Small End Circ: 3.39" (86mm); Length: 6.44" Info
Speedi-Boot
 
 
EDIT: found a bunch of the Dorman 03662 boots on eBay.
  Part image  

$28.79

qty_down_white.png
 
qty_up_white.png
 
Edited by ship
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The problem I'm having is the split boots that I have found are for the outer end of the axle. Not found them for the inner end. Maybe I'm just overlooking something. I would rather just change the boot now but if I don't find a split boot for the inner end I'm going to drive it until next fall, which won't be a lot of miles, and then change the whole axle.

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I should have read your original post a little closer.... didn't dawn on me that you needed an inner and not an outer.

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Looks like I'm going to have to replace the whole drive axle. I can't find any split boots for the inner CV joint to fix it with the axle in place.

 

I need to decide if it would be better to disconnect the lower ball joint from the knuckle to get the axle out,  OR disconnect the knuckle from the strut by removing the two large bolts. Any comments on how to remove the drive axle would be appreciated.

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I haven't done a Reatta but the FSM states the ball joint is the item to be disconnected.

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Maybe Daves89 will chime in.  I thought he changed one out a number of years ago(?).

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2 hours ago, 2seater said:

I haven't done a Reatta but the FSM states the ball joint is the item to be disconnected.

Could you point me to the section of the FSM that describes the procedure? I've not been able to find it.

 

I was hoping that would be the best way to do it so the alignment isn't effected like it would be if the strut is disconnected from the knuckle.

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1 hour ago, ship said:

Maybe Daves89 will chime in.  I thought he changed one out a number of years ago(?).

Well actually I have never done one either, but Kendall did for me. I remember it as the ball joint being disconnected as 2seater has stated.

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2 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Could you point me to the section of the FSM that describes the procedure? I've not been able to find it.

 

I was hoping that would be the best way to do it so the alignment isn't effected like it would be if the strut is disconnected from the knuckle.

In my 1990 FSM it is section 4D, Drive Axles. Unless you can get the strut back in the same exact location, alignment would be recommended if disconnected from the knuckle.

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Thanks for all the replies. Jim Finn says he disconnects the lower ball joint and tie rod to. I'm going to try that to avoid having to get an alignment. I looked under the car today and it looks like it will be pretty easy to do it that way.

 

I can still drive while waiting on the new axle to arrive but I won't be going to far from home. Don't want to end up like this again. It's no fun when you're sitting in the middle of nowhere after dark waiting for a tow truck. 😬

 

CPS failure-1.jpg

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I thought I would have the axle replaced in my car by now but I ran into an unexpected problem with my Amazon order for a new axle. The axle was in stock when I placed the order but a short time latter I received an email from Amazon saying the axle was not in stock. They told me I would receive another email when they had an estimated time of delivery.

 

After a few days of no email updates from Amazon I decided to cancel the order and look for another axle. To my surprise I wasn't able to cancel the order on Amazon's website. I requested a call from Amazon customer service and they called me back almost immediately. They canceled the order promptly without problems and no charges to me. After talking with Jim Finn I found that the axle for '88 models is different from later years. He will be sending me a good used axle via FedEx at a good price soon.

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Ronnie, if you would please take pics as you remove the old and install the new (once you receive the new one from Jim).  I'm very interested in the process.

Many thanks....

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