2seater Posted February 8, 2023 Share Posted February 8, 2023 5 minutes ago, jg2003 said: What cars would I be able to pull parts out of fuel tank wise or is ours a one make type of thing?. Reatta only. Around $150 new for a Spectra brand. Leaky fuel tank won’t bleed fuel pressure off immediately. There must be a leaky line or an internal leak as mentioned above. Apply 12v to the green pump connector under the hood. Pump will stay on and it will be easier to leak check and pressure will stay up so it should start more easily if the leak is the cause of the hard start Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg2003 Posted February 8, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted February 8, 2023 (edited) 39 minutes ago, 2seater said: Reatta only. Around $150 new for a Spectra brand. Leaky fuel tank won’t bleed fuel pressure off immediately. There must be a leaky line or an internal leak as mentioned above. Apply 12v to the green pump connector under the hood. Pump will stay on and it will be easier to leak check and pressure will stay up so it should start more easily if the leak is the cause of the hard start The darn thing has got like 5 holes in it but yeah guess I'll be checking for leaks elsewhere along the fuel system. You think the oil pressure sender is worth taking a look at? Also for reference the puddle the leak it makes is bigger than a baseball so I don't know if that would be enough of a leak to cause issues. Edited February 8, 2023 by jg2003 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 As long as it has enough gas for the pump, it should work, think you have a different problem. 12v on the prime connector with a rail pressure monitor would tell a lot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 After nearly four pages of posts I've got lost. Lots of recommendations have been made. Let's make a list of things that have actually been done to correct the problems. 1. Checked diagnostic codes. Found a code E041 (camshaft sensor) 2. Checked fuel pressure. Reading 40-45. 3. Inspected gas tank for leaks. Found a puddle about the size of a baseball. Anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg2003 Posted February 9, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted February 9, 2023 12 hours ago, Ronnie said: After nearly four pages of posts I've got lost. Lots of recommendations have been made. Let's make a list of things that have actually been done to correct the problems. 1. Checked diagnostic codes. Found a code E041 (camshaft sensor) 2. Checked fuel pressure. Reading 40-45. 3. Inspected gas tank for leaks. Found a puddle about the size of a baseball. Anything else? Symptoms: *Car will not start without gas input otherwise car cranks and sputters. *Fuel pressure in start position reaches 45 drops to zero it doesn't hold it. *Sluggish acceleration and responsiveness. Struggled to hit 30mph *(Gremlin) Sudden loss of rpm display on dash leads to loss of power followed by higher rpm idle and fans on. *Rough idle ~Key details -Car used to run however was noticeably sluggish. -Cold freeze happened and suddenly car didn't want to start. -Car will sometimes decide to idle normally after having it start for a couple of minutes like 5 (which is why I thought the problem had been solved last week when it suddenly started at first crank and ran also noticed sluggishness and then it died on the way home). List of things checked 1.MAF, 2.Ignition packs/wires-spark 3.fuel pressure regulator(no fuel leaking) 4. Fuel pump relay Things to check next/ maintenance 1.Fuel filter replacement 2.Check Spark plugs/new ones 3. Cam sensor replacement/ check magnet condition. 4. Oil pressure sending unit Anything else to add to the list to check next? Car starting only with pedal input means the car isn't getting the mixture of fuel and spark it needs. I'm assuming I have a fuel issue due to the drop of pressure. We can rule out air. Need to check my spark plugs to fully rule out spark. Also if I'm getting spark from my ingition packs does that mean the icm is good? Saw somewhere that I could rule it out if so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 Again what happens if you apply 12v to the loose fuel prime (green) connector and try to start ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rogold Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 I have gone thru a couple fuel pressure regulators in my 10 years of ownership. The new ones I bought did not leak out the vacuum port, I believe the internal valve was sticking open. I disconnected the return line of the fuel pressure regulator and blocked it off with an oil pan bolt I bought at the parts store. It would then hold pressure. Swapped the regulator, and the car ran normally again. Seems like they only last a few years on my car, don't know why. I usually buy the AC Delco brand, maybe I should switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 This is a 1991 and the regulator is a very different style. The oem is Bosch, however, it may be possible it doesn't close the return. Only two things, aside from the dash cluster itself, are involved with the tachometer, and that is the ICM and ECM/PCM. A failure of the dash cluster will not affect the running of the engine. It is a symptom, not a cause. As mentioned more than once; hotwire the fuel pump, preferably with a gauge attached. If the pressure is stable somewhere north of 40psi, try to start the engine. That takes the oil pressure switch, the relay and other things out of play. It should start and run if fuel is the main issue. The fuel pressure should drop a little with the engine running, mid 30's is fine, any lower and it is a problem. If it still acts up, the problem is likely elsewhere. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ship Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 I have a '91 Reatta. I've gone through 3 oil pressure sending units in the 10 years I've owned it. They are notorious for failing due to crappy quality. BUT, I've never encountered any of the symptoms you are describing due to a bad oil pressure sending unit. When they go bad, the oil pressure dash gauge just goes "haywire", from extreme low to extreme hi back and forth. At no time does it adversely affect any other engine function. When the dash gauge goes "haywire", I know it's time to replace the unit.... nothing more, nothing less. Just my own experience, for what it's worth. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted February 9, 2023 Share Posted February 9, 2023 Noting beats proper instrumented troubleshooting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg2003 Posted May 13, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted May 13, 2023 Alright folks update it's been a couple of months and after talking to our neighbor who just got an old Buick running to sell he gave us some tips on how to tackle the whole thing I'm in school rn so I've been busy but I have also been gathering the parts to help the fuel system. The guy that sold it to me said the fuel pump had been giving him issues and that he didn't replace it but had fixed the issue which clearly it hasn't. So I'm going to just go ahead and buy a new tank and fuel pump and see where we go from there starting from the rear to the front. The tank has been on hold for a bit but should be coming in soon I was wondering if yall had any recommendations for a fuel pump replacement I have an assembly that came with the car but if yall could help me with getting a whole kit for a replacement that would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted May 13, 2023 Share Posted May 13, 2023 You will have to give us a summary of what the problem is what you have done so far. I don't think anyone is going to go back and read all four pages of a three month old thread again. 41 minutes ago, jg2003 said: I was wondering if yall had any recommendations for a fuel pump replacement I have an assembly that came with the car but if yall could help me with getting a whole kit for a replacement that would be great. I didn't know what you mean by "kit". Below is a link to the fuel pump and strainer that I used when my fuel pump was replaced. Amazon.com: Delphi FE0039 Electric Fuel Pump Motor : Automotive Amazon.com: Delphi FS0177 Fuel Strainer : Automotive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted May 13, 2023 Share Posted May 13, 2023 Need to monitor the fuel rail pressure with a gauge. Should be 35-40 psi at idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg2003 Posted May 14, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted May 14, 2023 8 hours ago, Padgett said: Need to monitor the fuel rail pressure with a gauge. Should be 35-40 psi at idle. We tested the fuel pressure doesn't hold pressure at all pump primes but no cigar might be clogged with bad fuel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jg2003 Posted May 14, 2023 Topic Author Share Posted May 14, 2023 13 hours ago, Ronnie said: You will have to give us a summary of what the problem is what you have done so far. I don't think anyone is going to go back and read all four pages of a three month old thread again. I didn't know what you mean by "kit". Below is a link to the fuel pump and strainer that I used when my fuel pump was replaced. Amazon.com: Delphi FE0039 Electric Fuel Pump Motor : Automotive Amazon.com: Delphi FS0177 Fuel Strainer : Automotive Sorry bout that Ronnie by the kit I meant links to go ahead and buy everything at once like a "kit" should've explained that better and thank you for the links. As far as what we've done so far it's only been new spark plugs, tested the ignition system, and all checks out next was air and it checks out as well, the last piece of the puzzle is fuel and it seems to have low pressure. I'm going to be replacing the fuel filter, gas tank, and fuel pump and cleaning the injectors. As far as symptoms here's the list Symptoms: *Car will not start without gas input otherwise car cranks and sputters. *Fuel pressure in the start position reaches 45 and drops to zero it doesn't hold it. *Sluggish acceleration and responsiveness. Struggled to hit 30mph *(Gremlin) Sudden loss of rpm display on dash leads to loss of power followed by higher rpm idle and fans on. ~Key details -Car used to run however turned noticeably sluggish. -Cold freeze happened and suddenly car didn't want to start. -The car will sometimes decide to idle normally after having it start for a couple of minutes like 5 (which is why I thought the problem had been solved last week when it suddenly started at the first crank and ran also noticed sluggishness and then it died on the way home). List of things checked 1.MAF, 2.Ignition packs/wires-spark 3.fuel pressure regulator(no fuel leaking) 4. Fuel pump relay Things to check next/ maintenance The next step hopefully done by the end of the month will be replacing the fuel system parts like a new fuel filter, gas tank, and fuel pump and cleaning the injectors. I'm betting on the fuel being the issue I doubt the previous owner had the shop clean the old fuel out nor replace the pump they just jerry-rigged it and it gave out. The car doesn't hold fuel pressure at all neighbor helped us check it out and said the same gauge didn't even reach 35 psi. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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