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What is 2 1/4" thick and 5 lbs ???


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After almost 30 years of owning my '89 Reatta and not needing one, I decided to find a service manual based on the Forum's discussions on troubleshooting et al.   When I lifted the shipping box, I thought that my wife must have bought something like a brick so I opened the box and there it was, a '90 service manual.   Without turning a page I was impressed.   The size immediately reminded me of a telephone directory for NYC so it must have everything and then some on the '90 Reatta.  I thumbed through the manual and was overwhelmed with the quantity of electrical diagrams which comprised at least 1/3 of the manual.  Realizing that deciphering those diagrams was going to be a challenge, I immediately started to look at the nut and bolts writeups.   Then I decided to take a nap and try to remember when I enjoyed getting my hands dirty.............

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It is intimidating and as a matter of fact I have a hard time with it, so my first step is to just replace the problem part with a tested used part off the shelf. This has served me well for the last 17 years. Kendall [my mechanic friend] has cracked it open a few times for reference, but as I always say unless the wiring has been tampered with it has always been an end component. I do clean and use dielectric grease on the connectors when I have a component to replace.

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Any more I prefer .pdfs. Second floor study threatens to become a first floor room from sheer weight of paper on all four walls and overhead.

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I find the FSM very well laid out and easy to use. It just takes a while to get use to it. I carry mine in one of the compartments behind the seat for side of the road use if needed.

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Back in the day, I too carried a Service Manual in my car when I drove from Illinois to California in my red '64 Corvette Coupe 45 years ago.   The coupe has no trunk but a large area behind the seats so I managed to cram into that space a hydraulic floor jack, tool box, misc fluids and 2 beautiful cats in a carrier.   Almost forgot, my wife was included but not in the storage area instead in the passenger seat..............    She was a saint as  the Corvette had factory side pipes which were kind of loud................

 

 

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I have a thumb drive with the manual on it and a laptop.

Much better than lugging around that heavy book, and you don't get the pages dirty.

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"Corvette had factory side pipes" - chambered exhaust was quieter than Hooker side pipes if you left the inserts out. Tried stuffing with steel wool but all blew out at the top of second.

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How about this one.   I also had a '66 corvette convertible which had  a removable plate on the standard under body dual exhaust pipes........modified for racing with an open exhaust.   Crazy fun....... 

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You think the reatta FSM is large, the one I have for my '98 park avenue ultra is easily twice that of the reatta.

 

They take a little getting used to, but once you do, it's not that bad. I usually consult the how to section of this site first though and go to the FSM if I need more info.

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20 minutes ago, Philbo said:

I usually consult the how to section of this site first

Are there any how-to guides that you think need to be added that would be frequently needed?

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Great question.    I would like to see info on how to remove the plastic trim pieces on the dash.   Visuals on where the mounting tabs on all pieces would helpful as well as any recommended removal tools.   Thanks for asking.

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6 hours ago, Ronnie said:

Are there any how-to guides that you think need to be added that would be frequently needed?

I don't know, that is a good question. I have not really experienced any glaring gaps and there is a lot of good info there already.

 

I do remember when I went to do my brake fluid flush, I had a lot of questions and still refer back to that thread and the answers people gave. Maybe some of that could be baked into what is already written about breaks.

 

Also having a one stop spot for common torque specs and fluid types and capacities can be helpful for any car.

 

There are also some good aftermarket wheel setups that people have, maybe compiling those into an after market wheels and tires guide would be cool. Maybe something similar for stereo too (if that doesn't already exist and I missed it).

 

I feel like there were a few of the guides that could have benefitted from some pictures or diagrams.

 

I did write that guide for replacing the turn signal switch, did you ever add it? I don't think I saw it last I checked.

 

Just a few thought off the top of my head. I would be willing to help add/refine content, when I get time to do so.

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6 hours ago, Top Down said:

Great question.    I would like to see info on how to remove the plastic trim pieces on the dash.   Visuals on where the mounting tabs on all pieces would helpful as well as any recommended removal tools.   Thanks for asking.

I can't help with the plastic trim pieces on the dash. I've never had a reason to remove them other than the trim pieces around the switches, CRT, etc. There is a How-to Daves89 wrote on removing the dash that might help, as well as some others that cover some of the interior parts.

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1 hour ago, Philbo said:

Also having a one stop spot for common torque specs and fluid types and capacities can be helpful for any car.

 

There are also some good aftermarket wheel setups that people have, maybe compiling those into an after market wheels and tires guide would be cool. Maybe something similar for stereo too (if that doesn't already exist and I missed it).

 

I feel like there were a few of the guides that could have benefitted from some pictures or diagrams.

 

I did write that guide for replacing the turn signal switch, did you ever add it? I don't think I saw it last I checked.

I think the engine torque specs is covered pretty well here: Engine Bolt Torque Specifications

 

It would be a nightmare trying to lookup and list all the after market wheels are available for a Reatta. We have a list for early model radios.  Radio Modules That Fit The 1988-89 Reatta I don't know about the later model after market radios that will fit. The selection seems to be limited from what I remember.

 

I guess I dropped the ball on the guide that you wrote for replacing the turn signal switch. I'll look into it and try to get it posted. Winter is the best time for me to do it and it's about here.

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Is there a tool for removing the plastic trim pieces and also how to properly use it?   I would hate to crack one...........

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3 hours ago, Ronnie said:

I think the engine torque specs is covered pretty well here: Engine Bolt Torque Specifications

 

It would be a nightmare trying to lookup and list all the after market wheels are available for a Reatta. We have a list for early model radios.  Radio Modules That Fit The 1988-89 Reatta I don't know about the later model after market radios that will fit. The selection seems to be limited from what I remember.

 

I guess I dropped the ball on the guide that you wrote for replacing the turn signal switch. I'll look into it and try to get it posted. Winter is the best time for me to do it and it's about here.

Good to know about that list of torque specs. That will be helpful. Maybe could add torque specs for brake and suspension too at some point. 

 

As for the wheel and tire guide, maybe not trying to list every possible combo, but maybe just examples that people in the roj community have done. Maybe more appropriate as a thread in the forum than a how to. That might already exist too.

 

No worries on the turn signal switch guide. Was just curious. It was pretty Spartan in format if I recall. 

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57 minutes ago, Top Down said:

Is there a tool for removing the plastic trim pieces and also how to properly use it?   I would hate to crack one...........

I have a set of tools very similar to these that work well: 

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/trim-and-molding-tool-set-5-piece-64126.html?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=425671834&campaignid=425671834&utm_content=1162184817282279&adsetid=1162184817282279&product=64126&store=&msclkid=1961950ad3d3162caa0bf650c97e46de

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I have always used my fingertips. They may be  4 torx screws [running change] on the top edge of the 1990 IPC trim panel. There would be one in each vent and two in the middle.

The '88/89 is even easier as there are no screws holding the IPC trim panel in place. After removal of the trim panel you cane see the two screws that hold each vent/CRT panel in place on the inside edge. There are no screws on the outside edge, just what I call snap in clips.

 I have never put any of the screws for the trim panels back in, they hold fine without them and no rattles either.

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8 hours ago, Top Down said:

Is there a tool for removing the plastic trim pieces and also how to properly use it?   I would hate to crack one...........

In addition to the tools Philbo links to at Harbor Freight, the only special tool I know of that is needed is shown in this how-to guide, along with instructions on how to make it.  Dash Pad Removal Instructions

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2 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

In addition to the tools Philbo links to at Harbor Freight, the only special tool I know of that is needed is shown in this how-to guide, along with instructions on how to make it.  Dash Pad Removal Instructions

This is the only tool you really need for dash work, but this is a must have!

 Also as a tip if you ever have to remove the long narrow vent piece when taking off the dash pad. Drill 3 holes in it to match the 3 torx screws that are used to hold the dash pad in place on the windshield side. Then if you should ever have to remove the pad in the future it will be much simpler and quicker as the screws are easily accesible. This was also a running change.

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