Jump to content

Key Fob Replacement


Cathy
 Share

Recommended Posts

I bought a Reatta about  2 weeks ago, and now the key fob (there is only one) is giving me issues.  I've changed the battery.  Has anyone found a replacement fob that will work for the 89 Reatta?  Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can use a Cadillac fob from the same era. The Buick ones are harder to find and the button symbols rub off more easily. 

C068049D-9A05-4307-8A96-29AABAF750A4.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

and the caddy has shaped buttons, easier to feel. Usually found on eBay.

Edited by Padgett
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for that suggestion!  The Cadillac fobs seem to be much cheaper ... but all seem to be out of stock.  I will keep looking.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The one above is $69. I paid about $100 for my Cadillac fob from ECRP. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually think you want an ab00702t

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your problem might not be a bad keyfob battery.  You mentioned that you only have one keyfob.  Your Reatta remote lock/unlock system is expecting two keyfobs.  You might have to reprogram your keyfob twice in a row in order to satisfy the Reatta remote lock/unlock system.  Go to the top of this forum and find the "How-To-Guides".  Dropdown to "Accessories" then to "Power Locks and Windows" and then to "Remote Transmitters (RKE) Programming".   

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I only have one fob set up on my car. Did you try programming the remote you have? One of the cars I had had an electrical issue that caused the electric locks to fail causing the remote programming to not work.
 

The remote I listed is the ab00702t remote. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

In the specs for that product it says FCC number: AB00702T

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The driver's side door doesn't unlock using the remote (when it works ... signal is iffy from it for whatever reason ... takes several tries ... new battery didn't help).

It also doesn't unlock using the automatic switch next to it on the door.  The passenger's side so far is working.

To unlock the driver's side, I must either use the key or push the button up manually from the inside.

So from what you're saying, there may be a correlation between this and the keyfob not working quite as it should, as if it's sending week signal.  

I can't get it to unlock the trunk at all with the fob.

 

I haven't looked at the instructions mentioned here yet for programming.  I looked at the ones that are listed with the Cadillac fob.  It looks crazy complicated.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Don’t worry, it’s not as complicated to program a remote as you think. I did it and I’m a newbie to doing these kinds of things. Unfortunately, to me it sounds like your problem isn’t the key fob. If the electric unlock switch on your drivers door isn’t working, a new key fob won’t fix your issue. The power lock could be dead or you could have a wiring issue. A common problem I’ve observed is the rod that goes in the door to the lock pull will start sticking and needs lubricant at the joints. But I have seen dead electric locks on two Reattas. 
 

Does the electric release button in the glovebox work to unlock/pop your trunk? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another thing is these key fob systems for the Reatta aren’t quite as advanced as what we have on modern cars today. The range on them is extremely short compared to modern cars. Someone might have to correct me, but I believe they only reach 15 feet away from the car. Modern cars can do more like 100 feet or so. So you have to be pretty close to the car to get the remote to communicate with the car. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe its your actuator that is causing the issue. Anybody else?

  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I no longer use my fobs anymore as I don't carry anything of value in my car and think that the cost of repairs for anyone breaking in is greater then the value of anything I would have in the car. As a matter of fact I don't even lock my trunk. I adjust the rubber stops out a bit further so that if I ever wanted to lock my trunk I would have to close it with more force. There is a rubber seal to protect any rain water from getting in.

 

I also have found that while people admire our cars they stay away so there is safety in that.

 

Getting back to your issue. There is a little rubber boot in the actuator arm that probably has a slice in it causing the "throw" of the actuator arm to not push the locking arm. What I have done is put a small piece of rubber hose inside the rubber boot hole to help with that. You will have to remove the inner door panel to do that. 

 

Regarding the trunk lock. Does the button activate the trunk latch to work?

 

After owning Reattas for 15 years everything works on all my cars , but I no longer use a remote, or lock my doors and trunk lid. Never had a problem...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

trunk button works in the glove compartment ... it doesn't work from the remote 

using remote right next to car, next to door lock ... sometimes it works, sometimes no


I'm thinking just using the keys are best option, but problem with that is that i've accidentally set the alarm off three times now ... and car won't start without deactivating it with the key fob ... which is the reason why I'm concerned about the fob.  I really don't mind just using the actual keys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

err my '11 Caddy has no key lock, just a button. Have two cars I just leave the key in my pocket and find that nice. Am concerned that someone might steal my blue parking pass.

Edited by Padgett
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I realize the ‘89 may be different, but what I’ve learned about my ‘88 is that using the electric lock button without the key in the ignition will automatically activate the alarm. If the door is closed first and then locked manually with the key,the alarm is not activated. FYI the passenger door electric lock button also sets the alarm if the key is not in the ignition. With the ‘88 the only way to deactivate the alarm is using the key to unlock the drivers door.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

The alarm is really easy to set off accidentally. Sometimes if I press the lock button and I’m still sitting in the car the door will swing back and when I pull on the silver handle it will set the door off. I have a routine where I don’t press the lock button until after I get up from the seat and then press the lock button and shut the door. I’ve set it off in my 90 and 88 by accident the same way. 

Edited by BlakesReatta
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks everyone.  I've set it off once more, and was able to get the existing key fob to finally click hard enough to stop the alarm.  I'm trying very hard to be careful.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...