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Bucking again.


jon L

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Here I go again. Fixed the stalling at idle. Now it runs perfect and Idles right, with no stalls.

But out driving, when you push down hard it starts to move, then bucks like the motor was going off and on.

Anyone anywhere, Help. I thought I fixed it, but no. It;'s back with avengence.

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It's one of three thing;

Mass Air Flow Sensor

 Crank Sensor [out of adjustment

Ignition Module/Coil Pack

I am not good at diagnosing but I am good at part "SWAPPING" which is why I have either known good parts or new parts in the parts bin...

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Have you tried watching for knock retard under heavy load? Some of the pump gas is of questionable quality over the winter months. 

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Most likely secondary ignition if no codes are set. Plugs, plug wires, coils. If so I'd recommend switching to a Delco ignition as used in the 91. Plug and play.

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Just replaces the crank sensor, and the coil pack seems Ok.

I am going to disconnect the Maf, and drive it tomorrow. 

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If you just replaced it you might want to check the crank sensor to see if it slid out of adjustment. Mine came loose in the bracket and moved [actually pretty freely] so it would start and run really good and then to the other extreme would barely start. Then when it slid to a point where it would be in the "middle" of the two extremes buck and kick on the road both city streets and highway.

 2 seater and I swapped many parts [coil pack/ignition module, plugs, plug wires, MAF Sensor, Fuel Regulator, EGR valve] before we tracked this down.

Edited by DAVES89
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Crank P sensor is the newer kind, no adjustment, just bolt in in.

I disconnected the MAF and took it out, It didn't buck it just started to miss

badly.

Anyone know how to check coils?

I think I will change the plugs, the wires are heat duty and are good.

If you all remember I had a ICM go bad, and I changed one coil back a sways.

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Replaced the spark plugs (E3") they are junk. One was not even firing. It was clean and shiny.

Another was broken inside. You could turn the connection on the end of it.

Installed a set of Bosch plugs and everything seems normal.

Thanks for all the help guys.

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Thanks for letting us know. I have a somewhat similar situation at times with my incompletely tuned turbo installation so I assumed it was my fault. I may have to rethink that because I may have some oddball plugs in mine as well, maybe a twin ground type?  I guess that would still be my fault but it would be a deviation from what I usually use

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I was impressed with the write-up on the E-3 plugs, so I purchased a set and installed them.

At first they seemed alright, but as time went on I started to hev trouble, Missing, Bucking, and lack of

Power. RPMs limited to 4500.  Then I didn't realize that it was the plugs. I went off the deep end

figuring it was something else. I did find a few other problems, but none of them solved the problem

until I changed the plugs.

  • Thanks 1
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There used to be a Splitfire spark plug and NGK has some oddballs. I had a set of Fire Injectors which had multiple electrodes but for my cars I just use Delco Rapidfires or Iridiums. Gap .045 for Magnavox or .060 for Delco ignition.

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02 sensor new, so is the downpipe 02 sensor.

Edited by jon L
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I didn't realize the SC engines used two O2 sensors. Does that mean you have to use a different ECM and associated wiring?

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No Ronnie, The second one is just for a true reading on the dash that you can see

all the time and it is also a heated 02 sensor.

 

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Thanks. Good idea. I have a friend with a Cobra that he built himself from a kit. He installed something similar in the exhaust pipe that gives him a constant readout of the air/fuel mixture.

 

SAM_1891.JPG

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Please explain "downpipe". Downstream O2 sensors are not supposed to read much off zero. Upstream  can read O2 value but Reatta never used a heated sensor.

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This is an aftermarket unit. It is stalled just below the header in the down pipe.

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