Power windows

[Derek Daniel]

Driver window dont go down at all ..passenger goes down slow ..any advice ?

[Philbo]

Most likely your window motors are going bad.  It's a common problem on most older GM cars unfortunately.  You can get the motors on rock auto for pretty cheap: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/buick,1990,reatta,3.8l+231cid+v6,1019911,interior,window+motor,1516

I have never done them on the reatta, but I have on other GM cars and it is usually a bit of a pain.

[Philbo]

Here is the instruction on removing the window regulator from my 1990 manual just to give you an idea.  I have had the trim off to replace the door handle on mine and it isn't too bad of a job. 

[Padgett]

Not too hard,  always replaced the rivets with screws. Feel Siemens are better than ACDelco.

[Philbo]

41 minutes ago, Padgett said:

Not too hard,  always replaced the rivets with screws. Feel Siemens are better than ACDelco.

Good to know because my passenger one is a little slow, so I am figuring that will be in my not too distant future.

[Padgett]

Slow is usually a dragging window.  Stops is usually the motor.

[Ronnie]

Dragging can be helped by spraying the tracks by sticking the tube on a WD-40 between the glass and the track. Then run the window up and down. Repeat. No need to remove the door panel. Just spray with the window down.

[DAVES89]

If you decide to go in the door don't worry about the two lower rollers. The top roller is the one Ronnie is referring to that binds up. The track is easy to get at and remove [3 screws]. Then pop off the roller and drill it out with a 3/8" drill. It will still snap on and roll much better. I did put grease inside the roller hole that I just drilled out.

Then while you are in there take a look at the door actuator rubber on the shaft that trips the lock. You will see that the rubber will have a slice in it. Take a real small diameter piece of hose and slid it inside the rubber boot hole and slid it over the actuator shaft.

 I did not remove the actuator to do this I just forced it off installed the hose and forced it back on.

 The "action" on the door lock is much more positive.

[fun car guy]

19 hours ago, DAVES89 said:

If you decide to go in the door don't worry about the two lower rollers. The top roller is the one Ronnie is referring to that binds up. The track is easy to get at and remove [3 screws]. Then pop off the roller and drill it out with a 3/8" drill. It will still snap on and roll much better. I did put grease inside the roller hole that I just drilled out.

Then while you are in there take a look at the door actuator rubber on the shaft that trips the lock. You will see that the rubber will have a slice in it. Take a real small diameter piece of hose and slid it inside the rubber boot hole and slid it over the actuator shaft.

 I did not remove the actuator to do this I just forced it off installed the hose and forced it back on.

 The "action" on the door lock is much more positive.

In the case of my '89, the driver's side is fine but the passenger side seems to be binding and the drive gear slips.  Although I have a replacement purchased from Jim Finn, I'm hoping I can find the problem and fix it with some lubrication. 

[DAVES89]

If it slips it's probably junk

 

[Padgett]

Be vary careful of the spring, it can be dangerous.

[DAVES89]

My mechanic buddy, Kendall did my window motor. He had 5 vice grips on it to hold it. he also had an air powered rivet gun. Drove all the rivets in about 5 minutes.

[Philbo]

The manual says to drill a hole and secure the gear (and spring) with a nut and bolt.  I thought that was interesting.  Not sure I would trust vice grips.  I feel like there would bee too much risk that they slip.

[Padgett]

Best to take the manual's advice, that spring is strong.