Philbo Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 So a couple days ago I got a check engine light and turned out to be code E022 (TPS low voltage). It would come and go as I drove. Using the diagnostics I drove while reading the voltage. The voltage at first read eratically anywhere from 0 V to 0.8V then at some point it went to just flat 0 V. Then periodically it would rest at 0.4V and then behave normally. I went ahead and replaced it. I bought a Standard Ignition brand because that is what is readily available. Now the voltage behaves normally and the check engine code is gone (Yay!) But... Now for some reason it idles really high :( Somewhere around 2100 rpm. It did not do that before replacing the TPS even when cold. Any ideas? IAC is bad maybe? Or needs cleaning? I disconnected the battery to see if that makes a difference when I power it back up tomorrow morning. Maybe the ecu just got a little mixed up compensating for the bad TPS? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 You have to adjust the TPS after installing it. Don't know the procedure off the top of my head but someone will chime in who knows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 23, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 11 minutes ago, Ronnie said: You have to adjust the TPS after installing it. Don't know the procedure off the top of my head but someone will chime in who knows. Yeah I did find that in the service manual and to the best of my knowledge I did that correctly. It should be at .38V -.42V and I adjusted it to .4V. (Someone correct me if this does not sound right). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 That is the correct idle value, should also read over 4.0v at wide open throttle (WOT). Would not be surprised if either the IAC is sticking or the butterfly is not closing completely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 23, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 So started her up this morning and the idle was back to normal. Or at leas where it normally idles (roughly 900 rpm). That seems about right. The interesting thing is I had read the IAC value in the diagnostic yesteday when it was idling at 2100 rpm and it was reading about 121. This morning it reads about 30ish. As best I can tell from the manual it should be somewhere between 0 and 50 at idle when fully warmed up. Maybe it did just stick open. Might have to take it apart and clean it in the near future. But thankfully, it looks like I can drive my Reatta to work this morning. Finally got some "top-down" weather too. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 It sounds like very similar experience I just had recently. The ECM had learned and memorized bad information and it does need a chance to relearn with good parts. I am guessing it cured the other code as well?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 23, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 (edited) 52 minutes ago, 2seater said: I am guessing it cured the other code as well?? It did! However I believe my TCC is still not working properly. It works for the first 10 min or so of driving and then stops, but does not throw a code. I posted about that a while ago and I believe it was you that mentioned it might be getting out of "closed loop". I never really got a chance to look into it. Will it not throw a code if it goes out of closed loop? Also, do you know if a bad oil pressure sensor will kick it out of closed loop? The ops has been eratic ever since I bought the car and it's just been low on totem pole to fix. The ops and a new Oxygen sensor are still on the list. Although I may add Delco coils to that list too just because. Edited September 23, 2021 by Philbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 23, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 7 hours ago, Padgett said: That is the correct idle value, should also read over 4.0v at wide open throttle (WOT). Would not be surprised if either the IAC is sticking or the butterfly is not closing completely. Thanks Padgett. It read about 4.4V at full pedal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 As to the TCC, can see the command in the ECM diagnostics screen. BTW TCC will drop out if coolant temperature drops too low and leaves closed loop 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 23, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Padgett said: As to the TCC, can see the command in the ECM diagnostics screen. BTW TCC will drop out if coolant temperature drops too low and leaves closed loop Yeah I have been meaning to check that out. As for coolant. I did a flush and new thermostat recently. Temp stays very steady at half way once it warms up now, so I don't think that is my case now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 I run a 180F thermostat and bring fans in sooner, when I had 90's it sat a notch below the middle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 Does the '90 have an indicator in diagnostics to show when engine is in closed loop like earlier models? Could monitor TCC and closed loop in early models that way. Wouldn't hurt to check electrical connector on transmission to make sure it is clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 page 8D7 in 90 FSM. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 24, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 24, 2021 Thanks for the info @Padgett So it appears that it is indeed running in closed loop. The computer is indicating that it is turning the TCC on but it is not driving like it is on. Again, usually it will work for the first few min of driving, although during this particular test it did not work at all. It did however only sit for about 2 hrs since the last time I drove it so the engine was still pretty warm. I am thinking maybe the actuator is going bad and stops working once it gets hot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 24, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 24, 2021 I did look and you can still get a replacement solenoid for about $20 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 No TCC codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 If the engine rpm does not drop as expected when the TCC is turned on it will set a code. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philbo Posted September 24, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted September 24, 2021 2 minutes ago, Padgett said: If the engine rpm does not drop as expected when the TCC is turned on it will set a code. Well that is very odd because it is not setting a code and the RPM doesn't drop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 If you are cruising on level ground and not accelerating the converter won't be slipping so the RPM might be in the expected range. It has to be out of range for 30 seconds or more to set a code. At least that is the way I interpret the FSM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted September 24, 2021 Share Posted September 24, 2021 You can check the TCC for operation using overrides in diagnostics. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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