Just curious

[fun car guy]

Wondering how Reatta prices are doing these days.  Mine will be a fine example once I'm finished working on it with no rust, excellent interior and everything working (except the A/C of course) but with 160,000 miles on the clock, I'm wondering how much rebuilding the engine would cost.  I confess I really like this car and would like to keep it for some years but if that's not practical once I finish, should I sell and look for one with fewer miles?

[ship]

As most have mentioned before, you really can't kill a 3800 engine if regular maintenance around them is kept up (i.e. sensors, timing chain, alt, a/c, fluids, etc, etc.).  Daves89 on this forum has a few Reattas that have well over 200K miles.

[2seater]

The only reason I could think of to rebuild the engine at that mileage would be to increase the performance. Beyond that, the only thing I find that may need replacement before 200k miles would be the timing chain. After that, regular maintenance is all it needs. Peripheral items like the water pump, alternator and such, is like any other brand, they do have a lifespan. 

[Nailhed66]

this car just recently sold on Cars and Bids and seems like fair market value right now for a decent lower mileage Reatta. In reality low mileage isn’t everything with these cars. Good condition and all systems functioning is where the real value is.

[Padgett]

Condition is everything. That said over $5k for an 88 Coupe seems exceptional. Maybe if has sunroof.

[fun car guy]

Thanks for your insight guys.  I guess I'll stop worrying about mileage and just focus on making sure everything works.  After all, when you think about it, 160,000K isn't very high for a 32yr old car.

[Padgett]

Miles really do not matter as much as good maintenance particularly with modern oils. Rubber and wear items need attention. Timing chain is most missed but easy to tel with breaker bar test.

[fun car guy]

Please describe the breaker bar test Padgett, sounds dangerous.

[Padgett]

No, engine off. Put correct socket and breaker bar on crank snout. See hoe much slack is in the chain (should be able to feel difference).

[fun car guy]

Of course, makes sense!  I wonder how much slack is ok and how much is a sign that your chain is about to break.

[fun car guy]

So I don't have either a box or open end wrench big enough to fit around the crank pulley bolt and there's what I think is an engine mount right in front of it so I couldn't fit a socket. I did manage to get a monkey wrench to grip it however and, moving the crank back and fourth several times, there seems to be very little slack - just a few degrees.  Yet another reason I'm glad I didn't sell the car.

[Padgett]

Thought I just used a 15/16" socket on breaker but a synapse is saying there are two different crank snout bolt heads). Use same on ground to loosen the bolt with starter.

[Philbo]

Yes@Padgett, I would be curious to try this test on mine as well.  Do you have any advice on what is acceptable play in the chain with this test?

 

Thanks!

[Philbo]

On 9/6/2021 at 8:16 AM, fun car guy said:

Thanks for your insight guys.  I guess I'll stop worrying about mileage and just focus on making sure everything works.  After all, when you think about it, 160,000K isn't very high for a 32yr old car.

Yeah mine has about 145k on it now and still runs like a champ.  To me that's just getting broken in for a 3800 . 

 

The other thing you do have to keep an eye out for on the GM V6s is the intake manifold gaskets failing.  That gasket can fail so that coolant leaks in the oil and that is obviously no good for the engine.  Keep an eye out for any white foamy stuff on the underside of the oil cap.  Personally I would recommend just doing it when you get the chance and not wait for it to start leaking. It is not a terrible job on the Reatta V6.  I've replaced intake manifold gaskets on my Reatta, on the Series 2 3800 in my other Buick, the 350 V8 in my Suburban, and on a 3.1L V6 in a Buick Century that I no longer own. So far the Reatta engine was the easiest.  But the OE gaskets just were not very good and just go bad with age.  The newer Felpro gaskets are much better.

 

If you browse FB marketplace and other similar places for older GM cars you will see quite a few that say something like, "it looses coolant so I think it needs a new head gasket."  I would bet that more than half of those are really the intake gaskets.

[fun car guy]

Thanks, It's good to know the engine is so reliable and long lasting and there's nothing like hearing from the man who's been there and done that.  However, so far it hasn't happened and I'm focused on rebuilding the brakes but I'll keep watch.  It's getting late in the season here in Michigan and I'm hoping to finish the brakes, clean the injectors and fill it with ethanol free gas before tucking it away for the winter.

[Padgett]

"acceptable play in the chain". None is good but a little is OK.

[2seater]

You will probably feel a little play due to the small offset in the chain from the tensioner, even with a brand new chain. This is a brand new Morse brand chain with a new old style tensioner:

 

 

[Philbo]

3 hours ago, 2seater said:

You will probably feel a little play due to the small offset in the chain from the tensioner, even with a brand new chain. This is a brand new Morse brand chain with a new old style tensioner:

 

Are the old style tensioners preferred?  Hoping to not have to do mine for a long time.  Seems as though Rock auto only has the newer style tensioner though.

[2seater]

32 minutes ago, Philbo said:

Are the old style tensioners preferred?  Hoping to not have to do mine for a long time.  Seems as though Rock auto only has the newer style tensioner though.

The new style has been pretty much the only thing available for many years. I have my own opinions on the tensioners which I have stated several times. That said, from the several  engines I have opened up, the original tensioner seems good for 175k-200k miles. I did have a bad experience with a combination of a Cloyes chain and the new style tensioner, which is why I have recommended the O.E. Morse brand chain if at all possible. It is my belief that it will make the combination of chain and tensioner last as long as possible. When installing the tensioner, carefully observe where the chain rides on it. It is usually right on the edge of the tensioner and I have shimmed the tensioner outwards in extreme cases but there is precious little room to do so and careful measurements are important.

[Ron Walker]

As noted by Ship ".....if regular maintenance around them is kept up (i.e. sensors,.....)"

 

I'll find out about the sensors. I had the MAF replaced and no improvement in the recent horrid performance of my '89 with 130+K miles.  The Cam Sensor is next, and I'll report after that is done.