Headlight Rebuild - Thoughts and One Question

[alchemist]

On Saturday I decided to (finally) change out the crank arms and gear couplers, what a fun project that was.  Used just about every extension, right drive, universal joint that I have to get at all the bolts.  One question remains, which is the proper routing for the headlight power leads?  The passenger side was routed from the bottom and the driver side from the top over the headlight sub frame.  I read somewhere that one route pinches the wires and one does not, can anyone give insight as to the preferred route?

 

Also, the steel crank units from Jim Finn are much more robust than the OEM aluminum ones, BUT the lateral projection is less and spacers are needed to prevent the link from rubbing on the headlight housing, just FYI.

 

Only three things left to do, oil pan gasket and oil level sensor (next year at the oil change) and transmission fluid, filter and gasket change.

Edited September 5, 2021 by alchemist

[Ronnie]

35 minutes ago, alchemist said:

Used just about every extension, right drive, universal joint that I have to get at all the bolts.  One question remains, which is the proper routing for the headlight power leads? 

You must not be using the How-To Guides here on ROJ much. I came up with an easy way to remove the headlight assembly that makes it easy.

Headlight Assembly Removal

 

This is the recommended way to route the headlight wiring harness.

Headlight Wire Routing Instructions

 

I didn't know Jim was selling headlight repair kits. It sounds like the one that was designed by Kingsley Baker. If so that is the kit that I have in my Reatta. They are very good quality kits. They do require as spacer to work properly. You can see the parts in Kingsley's kit at the bottom of the first photo and the spacers on the bolts in the second photo

 

 

[alchemist]

57 minutes ago, Ronnie said:

You must not be using the How-To Guides here on ROJ much. I came up with an easy way to remove the headlight assembly that makes it easy.

Headlight Assembly Removal

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Ronnie.  I always look in the how to guides often, and did use the headlight assembly removal guide.  Just a fun and involved process is all.  I did not find the motor rebuild in this list below.  The wire routing I completely glossed over., but the good news is that I did run them correctly based on clearances.

 

On my 90 convertible, the lower right bolt in the picture below is nearly impossible to get at, there is another bracket in front of it on both sides, limiting clearance in front of it to about 1".  Only way to get at it was with a box end wrench and remove by hand.

 

As always, this site is a tremendous resource!

Edited September 5, 2021 by alchemist

[ship]

I believe Jim's kits are in fact Kingsley Baker's.  I think Jim took them over when Kingsley passed away.

[Padgett]

BTW the rubber block on the end of the arm is important, it reduces the stop impact on the plastic pieces.

[fun car guy]

The toughest part for me was the little bolts holding the nylon rollers, they often break.  I had to drill them out and substitute longer bolts that go straight through and a nut/lock washer to secure.  I got my rebuild kit from Barney Eaton but then discovered all I needed were the nylon rollers.  Actually, it was fun figuring everything out, cleaning and repainting the plastic frames flat black before assembly.

[Ronnie]

6 hours ago, ship said:

I believe Jim's kits are in fact Kingsley Baker's.  I think Jim took them over when Kingsley passed away.

Sorry to hear the Kingsley has passed away. I've never met him but I talked with him on the phone and emailed him so much I feel like I did.