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Replacing the front brake calipers.


fun car guy

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I've removed the old caliper on the left front and clearly the hose is bad since nothing came out but is there some trick to uncoupling the brake hose from the brake line coming from the master?  I've soaked it over and over, left it overnight but it still won't budge and I'm a little worried about breaking the metal line.  I'm using two open ended wrenches, one 16mm and the other 12mm so there's only so much force I can apply without rounding out the nut on either end.

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You might need to buy tubing wrenches to so you can apply more pressure without rounding off the hex.

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2 hours ago, Ronnie said:

You might need to buy tubing wrenches to so you can apply more pressure without rounding off the hex.

I second this notion, and get good ones. I know I try to be frugal but I recently had a similar issue. I needed metric tube nut wrenches and purchased a three piece set at NAPA for not a lot of money, $18 if I remember correctly, but I figured a place like that wouldn't have junk. I could feel the end of the wrench expanding when I applied substantial pressure and I went back with the set to complain. The guy said, oh, we sell a lot of those but we have these wrenches too, and proceeded to swing out a door with tools hanging on the inside, out of view. I bought the one wrench I needed, eleven or twelve mm I believe, for $15, almost as much as the whole other set, but it popped the fitting apart like it was a box end wrench. For some things, there is no substitute for good quality.

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15 hours ago, 2seater said:

I second this notion, and get good ones. I know I try to be frugal but I recently had a similar issue. I needed metric tube nut wrenches and purchased a three piece set at NAPA for not a lot of money, $18 if I remember correctly, but I figured a place like that wouldn't have junk. I could feel the end of the wrench expanding when I applied substantial pressure and I went back with the set to complain. The guy said, oh, we sell a lot of those but we have these wrenches too, and proceeded to swing out a door with tools hanging on the inside, out of view. I bought the one wrench I needed, eleven or twelve mm I believe, for $15, almost as much as the whole other set, but it popped the fitting apart like it was a box end wrench. For some things, there is no substitute for good quality.

Thanks guys!  Yes, they are metric and I'm assuming the ones suggested by Padgett of vanadium steel are the better quality ones though the one 2 seater had success with seems more expensive as the three piece set Pagett suggested is only 12.99.  I  can clearly see how they're designed for just this application. This connection most likely hasn't been touched since the car was built so it's expected to be difficult to get to move.  Like Padgett, instead of ordering online I'll shop somewhere local now that I know what's best.  Many thanks!

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I looked at the wrench set I bought at NAPA for the flare nuts. The 3 piece set is Evercraft brand, labeled as chrome vanadium on the back side. The single wrench is a Carlyle brand and no material listed. I think both may be house brands for NAPA? No intention to start a quality debate, but just suggesting getting a quality brand, which is sometimes harder today than it used to be. 

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Have had a pile of flare nut wrenches, mostly Craftsman, for years. Never broke one. Next step is ViceGrips.

 

BTW if working on GM calipers, you also need an 18mm. Ratchet is best.

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Went to NAPA and got what I think are good wrenches.  Only bought 2 but they cost me $40.00 so they darn well should be good!

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