fun car guy Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 Having a disturbing situation with my Reatta coupe. I'm currently bleeding the brake lines and did the left rear first and now have jacked up the right. The strange thing is the left side doesn't go back down as it should. I heard something about a self-leveling system, when I lower the right, will it go back down or will I forever feel like I'm driving downhill? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 16, 2021 Share Posted August 16, 2021 Self leveling was only available on Rivieras. I doubt anyone has added it to your Reatta. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 So why isn't the left side going back down as it should? I only jacked it up at the proper place and only enough to remove the wheel yet it seems stuck much too high.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 2 hours ago, fun car guy said: So why isn't the left side going back down as it should? I only jacked it up at the proper place and only enough to remove the wheel yet it seems stuck much too high.. Not unusual for the suspension to be put in a bind situation when the suspension is at full drop from lifting the body. It should return to normal if the car is rolled back and forth to settle. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 People usually add self levelling for either heavy loads or trailer towing. If you do not have a hitch try just jacking the other side and see if the shock pops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 Thanks guys! I've jacked up all my cars over the years for brake work, ect. but never had one that acted this way and was a little concerned. I guess it's just that the Reatta has a different type of suspension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 By the way, I'm still wrestling with the right rear bleeder, frustrating since the left loosened so easily. I've wire brushed in down to bright metal and filed it so it's flat sided on 2 sides, bought a narrow pair of channel lock pliers and soaked it with WD 40 but it's still refusing to move! What kind of penetrating oil does everyone use? My dad always used something called Liquid Wrench but it's been so long it's likely no longer available. All our Reattas are around 30 years old so I'm sure many of you have encountered this before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 17, 2021 Share Posted August 17, 2021 1 hour ago, fun car guy said: bought a narrow pair of channel lock pliers Channel locks??? You need a Vice Grip pliers for this job. You want a small pair that will clamp down on that small bleeder screw. Channel locks pliers aren't going to hold tight enough without slipping. In my opinion Kroil penetrating oil is the best with PB Blaster coming in second. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 17, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 17, 2021 My bad, I meant to say Vice grip pliers. Thanks for the recommendation for Koril oil, I'll look for it soon, soak a rag with it and wrap it around the valve. I'm thinking this hasn't been opened in years and needs to be thorughly soaked. I have some replacement bleeders should I manage to get the old one loose. I haven't tested the brakes since I replaced the pressure switch so if the caliper works, I may leave it alone, just keep soaking it and move on to the fronts. Thanks very much Ronnie! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Kroil is good but I mostly use PB Blaster. I'd try champing down hard (have used channel locks to lock vice grips down really hard) with vice grips (moving jaw in direction of rotation). Apply pressure and kabang with a hammer. Acts like an impact wrench. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 18, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 18, 2021 Wow, talk about shock and awe, a great idea! I've hit it a few times prior to trying to get it to move but doing both at the same time sounds like something worth trying. Also helps to vent frustration too, I'm sure. When you say "moving jaw in direction of rotation" I'm assuming you mean placing the moving jaw on the left side. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Padgett Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Sorry am a north-south person, have always had trouble with left-right but placing the lover (movable) jaw facing forward tends to tighten the grip. Same with channel locks, are self tightening. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 18, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 18, 2021 Haha, thanks Padgett! Here's a kicker (at least for me.) I need to replace both front calipers as I get little or nothing out of either one. Called around and of course, nobody had them in stock so had to order them. The crazy thing is that the calipers were 24.99 each but the core is 29.95! I was told the parts suppliers are so desperate for parts for older cars, especially those of low production due to cash for clunkers that they're willing to pay the customer for the old ones! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 You have to pump the brake pedal to get fluid out of the front calipers. The Teves pump only works to flush the rear brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLTherio Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 Can you use a pressure bleeder for either the front or the rear brakes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 18, 2021 Share Posted August 18, 2021 1 hour ago, RLTherio said: Can you use a pressure bleeder for either the front or the rear brakes? Front brakes yes, rear brakes no. A pressure bleeder 'might' be able to be attached while bleeding the rear brakes while using the brake pump to push fluid out the rear, but I have never tried that. What I have done is fabricate a gravity feed reservoir that holds two qts. and bleed the rear brakes using the brake pump as designed but when I get to the front brakes, I add 12-15psi pressure on top of the reservoir to push fluid out. Sorta Rube Goldberg and not a sealed system but works well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fun car guy Posted August 19, 2021 Topic Author Share Posted August 19, 2021 9 hours ago, Ronnie said: You have to pump the brake pedal to get fluid out of the front calipers. The Teves pump only works to flush the rear brakes. Tried pumping the brakes for the fronts, got very little from the right, nothing from the left. I'm assuming they're just clogged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2seater Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 24 minutes ago, fun car guy said: Tried pumping the brakes for the fronts, got very little from the right, nothing from the left. I'm assuming they're just clogged. Remove the bleeder completely and gently try again. It is possible for the small hole in the bleeder to be plugged. The other possibility is the brake hoses are collapsed internally, which is not unusual from age, heat and miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 19, 2021 Share Posted August 19, 2021 46 minutes ago, fun car guy said: Tried pumping the brakes for the fronts, got very little from the right, nothing from the left. I'm assuming they're just clogged. You need a helper to pump up the brakes and then hold the pedal down firmly to apply pressure to the caliper. Then, with him holding pressure on the caliper, open the bleeder to release the fluid. Tell the helper to hold the brake pedal on the floor until you close the bleeder to prevent air from getting sucked back into the caliper. Repeat as many times as needed to get all the old fluid and air out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted August 24, 2021 Share Posted August 24, 2021 Modern brake hoses are different that the old ones but the old ones eventfully had similar problems. We have 30 year old cars, the front suspension goes up and down and the wheels turn, the front brake hoses get a lot of flexing. they have a plastic inner tube, with a rubber like coating, outer woven reinforcement. The inner plastic tube often cracks with age. the hose does not leak but that plastic tube can act like a check valve, depending on how it breaks. If you are working on the brakes because you have problems, buy new hoses and replace the old ones. Last ones I purchased were about $14 each. Not that expensive when you need to stop. 2 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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